Sabaidee!

Scroll below for:
Luang Prabang:
Temples, Nagas and Textiles, Elephants, Bears, a Big Brother Mouse and other Projects.
Journey down the Mekong… and up to Nong Khiau and the North.

Click Below for Luang Prabang:  Where to Eat and Stay, Flying to Laos and the High Speed Train:
https://alamasia.net/luang-prabang-eat-and-stay/

Click Here for Vientiane
Click Here for Southern Laos:  Wat Phou and Champassak

Luang Prabang-  the ancient and former royal capital is seemingly still guarded by the spirits where the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers meet.

Usually the first thought of a destination for the traveler to Laos today, the old town of Luang Prabang was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995. Within a few blocks of the old town peninsula are precious temples, boutique accomodations, charming cafes and galleries. Luang Prabang has grown into Southeast Asia’s chic place to be.  I wonder what young tech-savvy travelers today would think of 1998- not long ago to me, but when I first visited Luang Prabang, when there was hardly an internet connection. Imagine sitting at a painfully slow computer terminal at an internet cafe. But what did it matter-  or “boh pen nyang”, as the Lao will still say about things beyond their control.

Luang Prabang is still a place where you can get lost in time and learn of stories from the past.
What was the former royal capital of Laos?
Luang Prabang was founded in 1353 and served as the seat of the Lan Xang Kingdom ( Kingdom of a Million Elephants ) until 1563 when the capital was moved south to Vientiane to establish a more secure administrative center and to better defend against threats of invasion from the Burmese. However, Vientiane was sacked by the Siamese in 1828, and the capital was moved back to Luang Prabang.

The French Era
Laos became a French protectorate in 1893 following the Franco-Siamese crisis.
Several treaties were signed between Siam (now Thailand) and France, primarily in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, to delineate borders in Southeast Asia and settle disputes related to French Indochina. 
Laos remained under French colonial rule as part of French Indochina until 1953, with a brief interruption during the Japanese occupation in World War II.  The French made Vientiane their administrative capital while the monarchy remained in Luang Prabang.

Laos was later drawn into the middle of the Vietnam/American war with North Vietnam supporting a newly formed communist Pathet Lao movement, and the Americans supporting the royalist government.

The Americans recruited ethnic Hmong to fight for the CIA in a secret war- from 1964 to 1973, the U.S.
bombed eastern regions of Laos which was being used by the North Vietnamese as a transit route to get supplies to the Viet Cong fighting in the south. During these nine years, more than 2 million tons of explosive ordnance dropped made Laos the most heavily bombed country per capita in history. In parts of northeastern Laos, locals escaped bombings by living in caves for those nine years, coming out to plant rice during the night.
Bombs and Bombs- How many more Limbs need to be Lost?
Read:  https://alamasia.net/bombs-and-bombs-how-many-more-limbs-need-to-be-lost/

In 1975, the country fell into control of the Pathet Lao. Fortunately Luang Prabang was spared destruction from bombs, but the last King of Laos,  King Sisavang Vatthana was forced to abdicate by the communist Pathet Lao, leading to the abolition of the monarchy and the establishment of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic. The last King and his family were sent to a re-education camp in northeastern Laos near Xam Neua, where he died in captivity in the late 1970s.
Stalking the Elephant Kings: In Search of Laos by Christopher Kremmer is a great first read for visitors to Luang Prabang:  https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/1097082.Stalking_the_Elephant_Kings

Laos remained largely closed and isolated for about 14 years after the communist takeover until “New Economic Mechanism” (NEM) reforms began in 1986, marking a gradual re-opening to the outside world.

Amongst the countries of Indochine, it is said the “Vietnamese are people who plant the rice, the Cambodians work in the fields, and the Lao like to sit and listen to the rice grow.”

Indeed one will feel a more relaxed pace of life in Laos today, and one can also sit for hours watching the rivers flow.

Stories of the Naga:
Legend tells of a woman called Sayak who went fishing. She felt a strange-ness after touching a piece of wood in the river and later gave birth to ten children! This piece of wood later turned into a dragon and the sons of Sayak are thought to be the ancestors descending from the sacred naga water dragon-still worshipped as a symbol of fertility.

For those who love myths, read more about the story of Phi Fah– the celestial dragon spirit of the sky who sent down a giant golden pumpkin out of which the “Four Marvellous Brothers” were hatched. These brothers married daughters of the king and founded their own glorious kingdoms.
I am told this is why the Lao hesitate to eat pumpkins today!

But most visitors to Luang Prabang hear history starting in the 14th century when one prince was born inauspiciously with a full set of 32 teeth. His name was Fa Ngum, and he was cast down the Mekong on a bamboo raft to finally land in present day southern Laos near the famous of temple of Wat Phou in Champassak,  then part of the Khmer empire.  Fa Ngum was raised in the Khmer court and married a Khmer princess. Along with a golden Buddha image said to have been presented as a gift to the court of Angkor by Sri Lanka, Fa Ngum and his princess, set off in a grand procession of elephants and founded the Kingdom of Lan Xang–  Kingdom of a Million Elephants in 1353 with its capital of Luang Prabang.
The Phabang Buddha remains a sacred guardian to Luang Prabang ( Luang meaning Great ).

The present day home of the sacred Phabang Buddha, located in the grounds of the former royal palace.

Luang Prabang’s old town is full of precious temples or wats.

Wat Xieng Thong is the most revered and auspiciously located near the tip of the peninsula where the rivers meet.

Dating back to 1560 under royal patronage, the temple was built at the site of a sacred tree. On the rear wall of the temple is a Tree of Life in beautiful glass mosaics.  Other pavilions tell of more local Lao stories and legends and within the monastery grounds is the hall housing the royal urn and funeral barge. Protected by nagas, this royal barge was last used for the cremation of King Sisavangvong in 1959.

Alms Giving to Monks – PLEASE Respect this tradition.
Each morning many visitors come out before 6am to see the procession of over 300 monks to receive alms. Unfortunately, even with notices around town asking visitors to behave in a respectful manner, tourists often step right into the procession for the photo opportunity! Please remember this is a sacred ritual to the local people. It is best to observe the alms giving from the quieter middle road of town
( 1 block behind the main road). Observe quietly and take photos only from a distance.
Some local vendors have sadly also turned this into a business venture selling food to tourists to give to the monks. If you wish to give alms, please do so only in a proper manner as guided by a Lao friend. Or, perhaps make your own merit with a donation to the many worthy causes in Laos. Thank you for respecting the dignity of the monks and young novices.

An interesting read:
Preserving and protecting Buddhist Heritage of Laos:
a wonderful article from Buddhist Door:

https://www.buddhistdoor.net/features/preserving-and-protecting-the-buddhist-heritage-of-laos

Orange Robe Tours:
Join an insightful walk learning more about life in the temples:
https://www.orangerobetours.com/index.html

Textile Heaven in Laos:
The Lao have maintained their amazing weaving skills and are masters with natural dyes.
Learn more about the beautiful Lao textile arts:

KimThong Lao Silk:                                                                                    

Kim Thong comes from a family and community of ethnic Red-Tai weavers of Houaphanh province in northeastern Laos.

The Red-Tai are traditionally a shamanic people with a strong belief in the afterworld. Textiles depict stories of ancestor spirits traveling in between our worldly and other-worldly realms. Look for the Nagas in these gorgeous textiles! They are often woven into textile motifs honoring these river spirits providing fertility and protection for livelihood.

Visit Kim Thong’s new showroom filled with loads of treasures!
Behind Villa Santi – opposite Villa Santi Annex.  Wish she had a website!
Email: KinThongLaoSilk@gmail.com

TAEC – Tradtional Arts and Ethnology Centre
A wonderful place to learn more about the various ethnic cultures of Laos and the initiatives of TAEC in education and community outreach.  Laos is very diverse with over 50 ethnic groups officially classified into those of the low lands ( Lao Loum– the majority of the population ) mid-lands ( Lao Theung– include the Khmu) and the highlands (Lao Soung- include Akha, Hmomg, Lahu, Phou Noi and Yao )
TAEC is Located up a small hill close to the Dara Market- be sure to check out what is new on their website,  The TAEC Boutique is on the main road in old town opposite Villa Santi.
https://www.taeclaos.org

Hmong New Year around Luang Prabang: 

The Hmong maintain traditional animist beliefs with ancestor worship in a shamanic culture. Young Hmong are also eager to have an education and come to Luang Prabang to be a part of the modern world. Many employers like to hire Hmong as they are very hard and reliable workers.
If you find yourself in Luang Prabang in December or January, check the dates of the Hmong New Year- a treat to see their celebrations, dressing in their finest traditional clothes, still very proud of their culture.
Click below for som photos of Hmong New Year:
https://alamasia.net/hmong-new-year/

OckPopTok Textile Gallery and Living Crafts Centre:

Learn about how Silk Worms become Nagas and the art of natural dyeing at OckPopTok’s Living Crafts Center.  Located along the Mekong, a short drive from the old town, you can join workshops or just relax for lunch or tea.  Ask about free shuttles from Ock Pop Tok showroom on the Main Road in Old Town.
https://www.ockpoptok.com

Ban Xang Kong Craft Village
Just beyond the airport of Luang Prabang- a short ride by tuk-tuk or when season permits, cross over the Nam Khan River by bamboo foot bridge at the tip of the peninsula for a walk to this village of weaving families. Here you can also see the process of mulberry paper making.  Simone Saa Paper home and shop is a lovely place to visit.

Education Projects:

The Language Project @My Library

Supporting Lao Youth in their quest for a brighter future.

The Library is thriving in their new space along the Nam Khan on the lane down from Wat Aphay close to Utopia Lounge and Yoga space.

Learn more at: www.thelanguageproject.org

Check out the beautiful Photography of Lao Youth: www.laophotographers.zenfolio.com

Big Brother Mouse!

Publish easy to read and fun books for children in Lao and in English since 2006.  Big Brother Mouse and a growing team have really made literacy fun!

Alam Asia was happy to sponsor printing of their book called Wonders of the World.  Explore their great website with news and stories of the Lao staff, how to donate -sponsor the printing of a book or a Book Party! https://www.bigbrothermouse.com

Elephants
You won’t find a million elephants in Laos today, but visitors can be a part of supporting those elephants remaining:

Mandalao Elephant Conservation-   along the Nam Ou River approx 45 min drive from Luang Prabang
https://www.mandalao.net/

also:
https://www.elephantvillage-laos.com/

Elephant Conservation Center
located approx 3 hours south of Luang Prabang in Sayaboury on Nam Tien Lake:
https://www.elephantconservationcenter.com/

Mekong River trip to Luang Prabang from the Thai border:

A two-day trip down one of the last beautiful stretches of river in Southeast Asia.  Cross into Laos from Thailand at Chiang Khong in Chiang Rai province and depart by boat from the Lao town of Houixay.  Overnight half-way down to Luang Prabang at the trading village of Pakbeng.

Public Boats depart daily in the morning-  cheap but can get overcrowded and uncomfortable!

Shompoo Boat: a lovely join-in cruise option with great crew and food.  Enjoy village stops along the way.
https://shompoo-cruise.com/en/

Private Boat Charters can also be arranged through a local agent-  a wonderful way to float down the river into Laos.

Pakbeng offers a range of accomodations from simple guesthouses-  easy to find on arrival- 
to more upscale- see:  Pakbeng Lodge

Pak Ou Buddha Caves:

Cruising down from Pakbeng you pass the sacred Buddha caves at the mouth of the Ou River. Housing over 4000 Buddha images, this is a sacred pilgrimage site for the Lao people. The lower cave known as Tham Ting is accessible by a few steps from the boat landing.  Continue up about 200 steps to the upper cave, you can also enjoy a great view of the rivers.

The public boats from Houixay will not stop at the caves.  Private boat charter or the Shompoo Boat will.
A visit to Pak Ou is also very comfortably done with a day boat trip from Luang Prabang.

Kuang Si Waterfalls:

About an hour drive south of Luang Prabang are the lovely Kuang Si waterfalls cascading into gorgeous turquoise pools.

a great place to cool off in the hot season!

Free the Bears!
While at Kuang Si, visit the Rescue Center of these beautiful bears. Over 150 bears have been rescued from a fate of having their bile extracted for medicine. Their work is expanding to Vietnam, Cambodia and hopefully more into Myanmar:
https://freethebears.org/pages/laos-sanctuaries

Laos Butterflies!
also close by Kuang Si is the lovely Butterfly Park:
https://www.luangprabang-laos.com/Kuang-Si-Butterfly-Park

Exploring more of Laos:

Nong Khiau along the beautiful Nam Ou river…
The Ou River is no longer navigable from the mouth of the Mekong up to Nong Khiau but you can drive either from Luang Prabang- approx 3 hours or set off by road opposite the Pak Ou Buddha caves.  Once in Nong Khiau, you can explore more of the Ou river northward.

Nong Khiau Riverside Resort is affordable luxury- lovely bungalows under a star filled sky listening to the peaceful sounds of the river. More travel info on:  https://www.nongkiau.com/

Mandala Ou Resort offering Yoga Retreats:
http://www.mandala-ou.com/

The North:
The Lao-China Railway has created lots of changes and new developments with a new economic zone around the Lao/China border.
Luang Namtha -the main town of this northern Lao province is a gateway for ecotourism, trekking, and cultural immersion, offering access to the Nam Ha National Protected Area, ethnic minority villages, and the Nam Tha River, attracting adventurers seeking authentic experiences in nature and rural atmosphere.
Learn more on:
https://luangnamthatourism.org/

Click Here for Luang Prabang:  Eat, Stay, Flying to Laos and the High Speed Train:
https://alamasia.net/luang-prabang-eat-and-stay/

Click Here for Vientiane
Click Here for Southern Laos:  Wat Phou and Champassak

Wishing you wonderful Lao Journeys! Travel Gently, Live Consciously.