Southeast Asia’s smallest capital and largest city of Laos is home to many interesting historical sites, very worthwhile to visit including precious temples and monuments. Vientiane is also home to some wonderful weaving cooperatives, loads of cafes and a Night Market along the Mekong overlooking Thailand.

A little History:
An epic Lao Tale called Phra Lak Phra Lam tells the story of Prince Thattaradtha who founded a city on the western bank of the Mekong after he was denied the throne in favor of his younger brother. But one day, a seven-headed Naga told Thattaradtha to build a new city on the east bank of the river which was to become the place of modern Vientiane today.
“Vientiane” is the French spelling derived from the Lao Viangchan. Viang refers to a “walled city” and chan derives from Sanskrit candana ( sandalwood ) although chan is also the moon… so some Lao refer to Vientiane as the Walled City of the Moon.

The early settlers were Mon people- who created the Dvaravati kingdoms along the Chao Phraya River Valley of present day Thailand. Feudal City States controlled trade throughout the Middle Mekong region who also brought influences of Theravada Buddhism originating from Sri Lanka. Later in 11th and 12th centuries, the Khmer Empire dominated the area with Mon along with Lao and Tai people entering from southern China, assimilating into a new Lao civilization.

In 1354, a Lao prince, Fa Ngum, born inauspiciously with a full set of 32 teeth, was cast away down the Mekong. He ended up being raised in the Khmer court and married a Khmer princess. Later Fa Ngum returned on elephant back and founded the kingdom of Lan Xang ( Kingdom of a Million Elephants)
He brought with him the precious Phrabang Buddha image and created Luang Prabang as its capital.
Vientiane was set up as an administrative city. In 1563, King Setthathirath moved the capital to Vientiane to avoid the threat of Burmese invasion. King Setthathirath had married a princess from Chiang Mai, and settled back in Luang Prabang bringing with him the Emerald Buddha. When the capital shifted to Vientiane, the Phrabang remained the sacred guardian of Luang Prabang, while the Emerald Buddha was housed in Vientiane for over 200 years. Lan Xang fell a part in 1707. Vientiane became an independent kingdom, later to be conquered by the Siamese in 1779. The Emerald Buddha was then brought to present-day Bangkok.

King Anouvong led unsuccessful rebellions against the Siamese and by 1827, Vientiane was burned to the ground. Lao artifacts were looted and Lao people were also taken to Siam as slaves. Today a substaintial ethnic Lao population lives in present day Thailand.
Vientiane was in ruins when the French first arrived and by 1899, Vientiane became the capital of the French protectorate of Laos. The French helped rebuild the city, repairing many of the old temples.

Wat Sisaket  built in 1818 managed to survive the sacking of Vientiane by the Siamese in 1827. The Siamese had used this temple as their home-base. The French colonial government restored the temple in 1924 and again in 1930.

The temple of Wat Sisaket lies within a cloister compound which is lined with over 2000 Buddha images.

Wat Phra Kaew, located across the road from Wat Sisaket dates back to 1565 as a personal chapel for the Royal Lao family. The Emerald Buddha was housed here for over 200 years until the Siamese claimed this sacred image, now residing the Grand Palace in Bangkok.
See more:   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haw_Phra_Kaew

That Luang Stupa  is the national symbol of Laos today:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pha_That_Luang

Patuxay Monument-dedicated to the struggle of independence from France was built between 1957-1968 with funds and concrete left by the US, originally intended for a new airport.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patuxai

Lao National Museum, originally called the Lao Revolutionary Museum offers an interesting insight to history, the struggle for independence with its take on communism.
https://www.laostourism.org/laos-things-to-see/national-museum/

During French rule, Vietnamese were encouraged to migrate to Laos. Vietnamese migration was interrupted by the Japanese invasion of Indochina during World War 2.
The French re-took Vientiane on 24 April 1945.
In 1953, Laos became an independent state with Vientiane the national capital.

However Civil War broke out between the Royal Lao Government and the Pathet Lao.
Eventually little Laos was drawn into the Vietnam-American War with the Lao Royalists supported by the US and the Pathet Lao supported by the Vietnamese.
On 02 December, 1975, the communist party of the Pathet Lao took over Vientiane, dethroning the Kingdom of Laos. The country was renamed Lao PDR- People’s Democratic Republic.

COPE Visitor Center-  a must visit in Vientiane.
Exhibition on Cluster Bombs and where you can learn about COPE (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise) services for bomb survivors.

From 1964-1975, the US dropped more than two million tons of bombs on Laos- mostly at random during 580,000 bombing missions to target the Ho Chi Minh trail passing through Northeast Laos. No other country has ever been bombed so extensively. For those none years, Lao communities lived in caves setting up living and medical facilities while venturing out at night to plant rice.

1/3 of these cluster bombs did not explode leaving vast quantities of UXO- unexploded ordinance- killing or injuring 20,000 since the end of the war. Although much of he UXO has been cleared, many still remain posing a continued risk to people, often children in remote areas.

President Obama made a historic visit to Laos in 2016- the first US president to visit and to personally address the legacy of war.

Sadly the US remains one of the few countries yet to sign the treaty to ban these cluster bombs and they continue to be sold to countries like Saudi Arabia for bombing missions on Yemen.
It is also interesting to notice in the visitors book, how many American visitors commented that they never knew about what had happend in Laos.
Thank goodness the COPE Centre contnues to raise this awareness and may their good work helping bomb survivors continue.
Learn more:  https://copelaos.org

How Many more Limbs need to be Lost?
Sadly wars continue to escalate in the world which is a Failure to Humanity.
Sharing personal stories and ENOUGH of WARS
and How to Support ICAN- International Campaign to Abolish Nuclear Weapons:
Click to Read More

Textiles and Crafts:
On a brighter note, Vientiane is also home to several weaving cooperatives producing exquisite crafts.  Many of the master weavers resettled to Vientiane from the northeast during war time and today projects based in Vientiane reach out to support weavers in remoter communities.

Check out:
Saoban– Village Handicraft from the Heart of Laos:
https://www.artisansatheart.org/artisans/saoban-village-handicrafts-from-the-heart-of-laos/

Nikone Handcraft:
Exquisite textiles and home furnishings in natural dyes. Nikone is a true inspiration in the work she has done and continues to do for sustainable livelihood in Laos.

Nikone’s workshop and showroom is located beyond Thongkhankham market around the corner from Hong Gaya Sin. Tuk tuk drivers should know to find it.
Tel: (856-20) 56-359-782 or Email: nikone@laotel.com
No website but find  Nikone-Handcraft on Facebook and on Instagram @nikonehandcraftt

Accomodations:
Several new small, clean and friendly budget hotels have opened in this area of Wat OngTeu/Wat Mixay area between Setthathirat Road and the Mekong.  And with so many new offerings and changes, best check out listings on Booking.com or  Agoda.

A few recommendations:
Salana Boutique Hotel – https://www.salanaboutique.com/  

Upscale:

Settha Palace – Vientiane’s most luxurious hotel: https://www.setthapalace.com

High Speed Train to Luang Prabang

Imagine this- the High Speed Train from Vientiane to Luang Prabang and on to China.
Normally the long 9-10 hour drive from Vientiane to Luang Prabang ( via Vang Vieng) can now be done by train in around 2 hours! So now in the Land of PDR- which is a reminder to Please Don’t Rush… you can now speed up your trip out of Vientiane to relax in Luang Prabang. The train makes a stop enroute n Vang Vieng... which is also a famous traveler stop along the Nam Song River set amidst limestone mountains.

LCR- Lao China Rail also has an APP to book tickets directly within 3 days of travel.
However you need to have either a Lao, China or Thai mobile number to register.

Remember tickets are only available 3 days in advance, and they sell out quickly. There is 2nd class, First Class and a Business Class. You can have a local Lao agent or see if your Vientiane hotel can assist with tickets as going out to the train station is an approx 30 min drive from Vientiane Center.

More info on:
https://www.laostraintickets.com/

Enjoy Lao Journeys!

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