Java is Indonesia’s most populous island with over 156 million people, over 50% of the entire populaton. Jakarta, the capital in West Java, is the nation’s political and economic heart. 
The 1064km long and narrow volcanic island is also home to fertile plains, vibrant cities with distinct western Sundanese, central Javanese and eastern regions- former kingdoms with unique traditions and historical sites and an abundance of natural beauty.

Central Java

Borobudur, Prambanan and Royal Courts of Yogyakarta and Solo

Central Java is home to the soul of Javanese culture and heritage.
Yogyakarta is usually the first stop on the way to see the ancient sites of 8^th century Borobudur – the world’s largest Buddhist monument, and Prambanan – the largest Hindu complex of Indonesia which dates back to 9^th century.

These sites were built during the era of the Mataram Kingdom by Hindu Sanjaya and Buddhist Sailendra dynasties, that thrived on intensive rice farming and maritime trade. Rivalry between dynastic familes ended in a union through inter-marriage. The kingdom had reached a golden age in advancement of art, architecture and literature. However as the Sriwijaya Empire, based in Sumatra rose in power, and controlled trade through the Malacca strait, the Hindu/Buddhist Mataram dynasties declined, gradually shifting to East Java by 11th century, while Central Java was replaced with an Islamic Mataram sultanate. 

Islam arrived into Java blending into the local Kejawen culture with spiritual beliefs associated with Javanese mysticism (Kebatinan).  In modern-day Indonesia, with a predominant muslim population, you will see a blend of traditions. The mythical Garuda, vehicle of Hindu Lord Vishnu, is the national symbol and emblem of Indonesia, symbolizing strength, knowledge and loyalty. The Garuda holds a shield with five emblems of the state Pancasila philosophy and the moto of Bhinekka Tunggal Ika- Unity in Diversity.
Shadow puppet plays (Wayang Kulit)  and classical dance tell stories from great Hindu epics of the Ramayana and Mahabarata, as well as local Javanese legends and history. The stories explore philosophical ideals and moral dilemmas, often with the theme of the battle between good and evil.

Royal Courts of Central Java
In 1745, a split occurred within the Islamic Mataram sultanate resulting in the formation of two sultanates.
Pakubuwono II established his court in Surakarta ( Solo ) and Hamengkubuwono I, developed the sultanate of Yogyakarta.

The Sultan’s Palace of Yogyakarta, known as the Kraton, is a fascinating place to explore.
Built in 1755-1756, the construction is based on Javanese cosmology linking Mount Merapi and the Indian Ocean to the south, home of Ratu Kidul, Queen of the Southern Sea. The legends of Ratu Kidul involves stories of feminine power with a spiritual link to Javanese royalty.

The Kraton’s history also includes an attack by the British in 1812 followed by the Dutch consolidating power. The Yogyakarta Kraton shifted from a sovereign ruler’s seat to a culturally significant center under Dutch oversight.
Shortly after proclaiming independence, Yogyakarta served as the revolutionary capital from 1946-1948.
Jakarta was unstable, still occupied by Dutch forces. Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX, offered full political, logistical, and financial support to the young Republic of Indonesia.
During the Second Dutch Military Aggression (1948-1949), when the Dutch occupied Yogyakarta, the Sultan refused to cooperate with the Dutch, who wanted him to rule as a separate state, The Sultan was a key figure in organizing the General Offensive of March 1,1949, which successfuly demonstrated to the world that Indonesia still had a functioning army and government.
For the Sultan’s critical contributions, Yogyakarta was granted the status of a Special Region (Daerah Istimewa) in 1950, allowing the Sultanate to remain as a monarchy within the Indonesian republic.

The current structure of the Kraton dates from the rebuilding by Sultan Hamengkubuwono VIII.
The Kraton remains a vital center for Javanese culture and the Sultan’s residence. The current Sultan of Yogyakarta is Sri Sultan Hamengku Buwono X, who has reigned since 1989 and who has also served as the hereditary Governor of the Special Region of Yogyakarta since 1998. He is known for his efforts in modernizing the sultanate and his progressive stance, including a 2015 decree allowing for female heirs to the throne.

Guided Tours of the Kraton are led by local palace guides to learn of more stories within these walls.
Certain days of the week, you may be able to watch court dance or music rehearsals.

Nearby the Kraton, you can visit Taman Sari, the sultan’s former water palace, and explore the markets and back lanes of the kraton by local pedicabs called becak.

Ndalem Ngabean Resto – a royal family residence nearby the Kraton is open for lunch where you can sample Javanese cuisine, and they also have a guesthouse with a pool.

The city is also filled with batik and craft artisans and has a great local food culture.
Jalan Malioboro, the main shopping street, is lined with traditional batik shops and sidewalk eateries where locals also gather throughout the cooler evenings.

Alun Alun is the big open square near the Kraton where special events are sometimes held. Evenings you can find loads of local food stalls.

Kota Gede and Silver Making
This historic neighborhood is renowned for old traditions of intricate silver craftsmanship. Here you can find numerous showrooms and workshops.

Wayang Kulit Shadow puppet play and Nia Fliam introducing batik creations at Brahma Tirta Sari- a studio founded by Nia and her husband Ismoyo in Yogyakarta.

Walking Tours with Insightful Local Guides:
https://jogjawalkingtour.carrd.co/

What’s New Yogyakarta? –  a good resource to check out:
https://whatsnewindonesia.com/yogyakarta

Borobudur

Borobudur is located approx 1.5 hour drive north of Yogyakarta city.
It is very worthwhile to overnight near Borobudur to allow easy morning access.  Finally, Quota systems have been initiated granting visitors access to see the reliefs on the various levels of the stupa and also regulating the numbers of people. Sunrise is a beautiful over Borobudur, so check on timings to visit. There is an option to enjoy a sunrise breakfast overlooking Borobudur.
You will need to book time slot in advance online, or your local guide/tour operator can assist:
https://ticket.injourneydestination.id/en/

And see more on:
https://injourneydestination.id/en/destinations/Borobudur/

Borobudur Ship Museum within the Borobudur grounds is very interesting to visit. Here you can see the replica of the Samudra Raksa, a replica of one of the ships found on the reliefs of Borobudur which was created in 2003 to retrace the ancient spice voyages from Indonesia to Madagascar, and on to Ghana.
https://injourneydestination.id/experience/museum-kapal-samudra-raksa/

Explore around Borobudur
The Javanese countryside can also be very relaxing learning for a few days learning about local life and visiting local artists. Explore around the villages by horsecart or bicycle.

Mendut and Pawon Temples
Close by Borobudur, be sure to include a visit to the small temples of Mendut and Pawon which were on the ancient pilgrimage routes.

The Temple of Mendut houses three large stone statues. The central 3-meter tall Vairocana Buddha is a masterpiece of Sailendra art, embodying the Dharmacakra Mudra ( turning the wheel of Dharma) and the liberation from bodily karma. Beside the Vairocana Buddha are the Bodhisattvas Avalokiteshvara (compassion) and Vajrapani (power) symbolizing strength and wisdom for spiritual liberation.
Next to Mendut Temple, is the peaceful Brahma Vihara Buddhist Monastery with tranquil gardens.

The Pawon Temple exterior walls show stone carvings of the Kalpataru wish-fulfilling tree and niches for Kubera, the god of wealth. The inner chamber is now empty, but it is said the Pawon temple served as a storage space for sacred relics.

For more of an Introduction to Borobudur: CLICK HERE.

Accommodations close by Borobudur:

Wanurejo Village:
a short drive from Borobudur is this peaceful village along the Progo River where you will find small hotels, homestays and artist homes.

Rumah Boedi  –  the feel of a private residence in nature with splendid view of Mt Merapi.
http://www.rumahboediborobudur.com/
or search Rumah Boedi on Agoda. 

View of Mt. Merapi- meaning mountain of fire (2930m) from Rumah Boedi.
Hire a car or jeep to explore around Merapi’s landscape, visit the Merapi Volcano Museum, hike to viewpoints and caves, and enjoy the cool area of Kaliurang.

Luxury:
Plataran Heritage – beautiful upscale property, short drive from Borobudur:   Click Here

Prambanan Hindu Temple Complex:

Prambanan is located 18km east of Yogyakarta City.

Be sure to explore some of the many smaller candis (stupas) nearby such as Candi Plaosan.
Ratu Boko on the hill above Prambanan is where you can learn about the legend of Roro Jonggrang.

For an Introduction to Prambanan, CLICK HERE.

Certain times of the year visitors can enjoy stunning performances of the Ramayana Ballet at the Prambanan open-air stage.

Information on Dance Schedules and more info on Prambanan and Borobudur:
https://injourneydestination.id/en/event/5421/

Kali Opak Resto – nearny Prambanan is this restaurant by Pak Suryadi who also offers an introduction to shadow puppets and where you can see his private keris collection. Pak Suryadi provides local youth training in the art of shadow puppetry and gamelan.

NEW Yogyakarta International Airport-  YIA

Approx 1.5 hours drive southwest of Yogyakarta City, along the coast at Kulon Progo, the new YIA replaced the Adi Sucipto Airport (JOG) in early 2020.
Traffic can be quite congested within the city and to the airport while a new tollway is under construction.
A comfortable train service is now available to the new airport.
Only 40 minutes from Yogya’s Tugu Station to YIA, however departures may only be hourly.

The new YIA has a beautiful terminal also welcoming more direct international flights from Singapore on Scoot and Air Asia from Kuala Lumpur. The old Adi Sucipto airport became so congested, but it was a classic arrival close to the heart of the city. Adi Sucipto remains a base for the Indonesian Air Force and it may open up more for regional commercial flights.

YIA Airport to Borobudur:
Visitors to Borobudur will find the road conditions from YIA to Borobudur much calmer.
Approx 1.5 hour drive on a countryside road brings you to Borobudur – stay there first and then make your way to Yogyakarta City is a good option.

Yogyakarta City Accomodations:

The Phoenix
A Landmark Yogya Heritage hotel:  Click Here

Malioboro Area
There are loads of hotels and guesthouses surrounding Malioboro Street and the Tugu Train Station.

Ndalem Ngabean Resto and Hotel – a royal family residence nearby the Kraton is open for lunch where you can sample Javanese cuisine in a lovely setting. Dinner and dance performances may be arranged on request. They also have guestrooms in traditional style with AC a pool.
Find more info on Agoda or have a look on their Instagram: @ndalemngabean

Jalan Prawirotaman
south of the Kraton, Jalan Prawirotaman and Jalan Tirtodipuran is a travelers hub filled with small guesthouses and cafes. This area was originally the center of batik making families.  Today there are still loads of batik galleries and shops also around Jalan Tirtodipuran with workshops available at Winotosastro Batik.

Duta Garden Hotel and new Boutique Villa:
Tucked down a quiet lane in a garden off Jalan Prawirotaman.
The original budget Duta Guesthouse is right on Jalan Prawirotaman:
https://dutagardenhotel.com/

Adhistana  Hotel-  a small cozy inn with comfy rooms-  one block behind Jalan Prawirotaman
https://adhisthanahotel.com/

Via Via Cafe –  on Jalan Prawirotaman
Travelers Cafe with information on Events and a Fair Trade Shop:
https://viaviajogja.com/

Venture south of Yogyakarta to Parangtritis Beach

Ceremonies to honor Ratu Kidul (Nyi Roro Kidul), the Queen of the Southern Sea, take place annually at various times depending on the specific location and tradition along the southern coast of Java, especially during the first night of the month of Suro of the Javanese lunar calendar. Thousands gather to offer flowers, incense and food to appease the spirit and for the protection of fishermen. It is said to avoid wearing the color green.
According to folklore, green is sacred and the favorite color of Ratu Kidul. It is believed that only she has the right to wear that color in her domain. It is also believed that if you wear green, you will attract her attention, causing her to entice or pull the person wearing green into the ocean.
Accomodations around Parangtritis:
Simple local guesthouses can be found and the more upscale legendary Queen of the South Sea Resort, which has tales of spooks.
The Edge Resort is a newer property up on the cliff looking down to the sea:
https://edgeresortyogya.com/

In recent years, the rugged coast of south Java to the east of Parangtritis has seen lots of new development with small hotels by the sea, offering more getaways from the city.

Semarang on the North Central Java Coast

Semarang is a former 17th century trading post with a renovated Old Town of former Dutch architecture, making it an interesting city to visit exploring heritage and local food.
Located on the northern train-line routes, you can travel on very comfortable and clean trains between Semarang and Jakarta or Bandung ( West Java ) via the historical towns and batik centers of Pekalongan and Cirebon.
Or train eastward to Surabaya and beyond.

Dieng Plateau

Dieng Plateau is located approx 2.5 hours drive to the northwest of Borobudur, is the site of the oldest Hindu candis (stupas) from 7th-8th centuries, built by the Sanjaya dyanasty. Dieng comes from Old Javanese meaning: abode of the gods. Temples here were dedicated to Hindu deities of Shiva, Arjuna and Bima.  This area was a sacred place for religious rituals, where hundreds of more structures existed from those that remain today.  Early inscriptions suggest strong links with South India. 
Getting to Dieng: is best by car or bus to the town of Wonosobo which can be used as a base to explore the Dieng sites, and for a hike up to Mount Sumbing, popular for sunrise.

Orangutans on Borneo

Combine Central Java with an adventure to see Orangutans in Tanjung Puting National Park
To reach Tanjung Puting, you can fly from Semarang (SRG) to Pangkalanbun (PKN) Semarang (SRG) in Central Kalimantan of Indonesian Borneo.   Semarang, a few hours drive north of Borobudur makes an wonderful combination to see orangutans and the historical sites around Yogyakarta.
See more from a visit to Tanjung Puting National Park: 
https://alamasia.net/revisting-orangutans-and-tanjung-puting/

Solo

Home of the Solo (Surakarta) Sultanate- approx 2 hours drive or train ride east of Yogyakarta.

Established by Pakubuwono II, Surakarta maintained its royal court, but also lost political control under the Dutch. So the Surakarta Sultanate shifted from political ruler to a guardian of Javanese tradition, performing rituals and maintaining cultural heritage, focusing on the arts of batik, gamelan and dance.
After independence, Solo was incorporated into Central Java province, while Yogyakarta retained its special autonomous status.

Royal Surakarta Heritage Hotel:
www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-9239-the-royal-surakarta-heritage-solo-mgallery-collection

While in Solo, be sure to visit the Museum Batik Danar Hadi:

a beautiful space and amazing batik collection
https://danarhadibatik.com/en/danar-hadi-world

Sangiran Museum- Home of Java Man
Take a trip further back in time to see what humans looked like millions of years ago.
The story of discovering Java Man begins over a century ago. In 1890, a Dutch military physician and paleontologist Eugene Dubois discovered a fossilized primate jawbone by the Solo River.  Dubois was convinced that this was Darwin’s “missing link” in the evolution of man, but lacked the evidence to prove his theory.
Nearly 50 years later, German-Dutch paleontologist Gerald Heinrich von Koenigswald, unearthed a fossilized ‘Java Man’ or Homo Erectus jawbone in Sangiran. This was a much older fossil, dating back over a million years or more. Dubois was right. Java man was the proof he needed that Homo Erectus existed in Java about as early as in Africa. Today, scientists recognize that Homo Erectus, which inhabited the earth between 1.7 million to 250,000 years ago, are the direct ancestors of homo sapiens (modern human beings).

The Ape to Human evolution and are Orangutans actually our ancestors?
As much as I love to imagine orangutans as our ancestors carrying incredible wisdom of the forest, it is believed that Homo Erectus was an ancient human species that evolved from earlier ape-like ancestors, sharing a common ancestor with modern chimps and gorillas, but Homo Erectus itself was a human (genus Homo) that branched off the evolutionary tree, not a modern ape evolving into a human.
So have humans evolved into a wiser species on this planet?
Sangiran Java Man Museum is about 15km north of Solo City.

Journey Overland

Many people drive across Java, but trains are also very comfortable, clean and efficient.   
The portion between Bandung ( West Java) and Yogyakarta ( approx 7 hours ) is known for the best scenery. 
Heading East of Yogya, trains bring you to Solo and to the main East Java city of Surabaya.
On the way to Surabaya, stop over in Jombang to see the ancient sites of the Majapahit era near Trowulan.

The Majapahit Empire (1293–1527) was a powerful Hindu-Buddhist maritime empire, known for its vast influence across Southeast Asia, reaching its peak under King Hayam Wuruk and Prime Minister Gajah Mada, unifying much of the archipelago before its gradual decline due to internal strife and rising Islamic sultanates.

Check out the Book by Herald van der Linde:
Majapahit: Intrigue, Betrayal and War in Indonesia’s greatest Empire:
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/210408024-majapahit

East Java:  Ancient Kingdoms, Malang and Blitar:

Click: https://alamasia.net/east-java/

East Java Volcanoes: Mt. Bromo and Ijen and Crossing to Bali:

Click: https://alamasia.net/east-java-volcanoes-ijen-to-bromo/

More on Train Travel across Java:

Halo Halo Bandung and Sundaland ( West Java )
One does not hear much about Sunda…. where is it? It’s West Java- and a long time ago, much more of a land mass that was submerged with rising sea levels. Could this have been the cradle of civilization?
Take a train ride to Bandung including a High Speed Whoosh and discover layers of history from ancient to post Dutch times.
https://alamasia.net/halo-bandung-halo-sunda/

KAI-  Kereta Api Indonesia ( national railways ) has an App to download, but can be difficult to navigate.
Train tickets throughout Indonesia may be booked very easily on  Tiket.com   or download their App.

The Man in Seat 61  is always a wonderful resource for Train Journeys around the world:
https://www.seat61.com/Indonesia.htm

Back to Home Page: Bali and Indonesia:
https://alamasia.net/asia-destinations-news-and-links/bali-and-indonesia/

Enjoy your Journeys- Travel Gently and Live Consciously- Selamat Jalan!