Island of Gods

Bali carries a myth to many that this island lies somewhere in the South Pacific- thanks to a Hollywood musical. But within the Indian Ocean is Bali,
also famously known as the morning of the world–  where Balinese maintain a unique culture of animist traditions which blended into Bali-Hindu Dharma as is practiced today.

Where to go on Bali?
This small island welcoming mass tourism still has remote and authentic spaces if you know where to look, or if you simply allow yourself to flow into Bali time.

Southern Bali is where the largest concentration of tourism can be found. The runway of Bali’s Ngurah Rai airport of Denpasar ( Bali’s capital city ) is located just south of Kuta Beach. Made famous by surfers and travelers of the 70s, Kuta now stretches up the coast lined with resorts to the club scenes of Legian, Seminyak and Canggu and has become very congested.  Life here definitely carries on well after sunset.

Sanur Beach to the east driving up from the airport, is a more relaxed family-friendly tourist beach. Home to old classic Bali hotels such as the Tandjung Sari , Puri Santrian and the gardens of the Bali Hyatt, enjoy a walk under the old trees lining the beach. Here you can feel the morning of the world with the sun rising over Bali’s Mt Agung in the distance.

With low tides, swimming may be not be easily accessible at Sanur whereas the west coast has some wild surf and undercurrents.

Nusa Penida: the island off the southeast coast which looks like the egg the Bali chicken laid.

Iconic view of Kelingking Beach on Nusa Penida and Bali Starlings flying free thanks to FNPF.

Fast boats take crowds of visitors from Sanur to explore and photograph Nusa Penida. This rugged island long felt inaccessible due to currents and other spirits is now seeing lots of new development. Smaller offshore islands of Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan are also popular for day-trips to the white sand beaches and for underwater life. Nusa Penida is still home to primary forests and a happy home to the once nearly extinct Bali Starlings.
FNPF- Friends of National Parks Foundation: now known as Friends of Nature, People and Forest
has successfully bred and released Bali Starlings on Nusa Penida. Learn more about their programs including reforestation work in orangutan habitat of Tanjung Puting National Park on Borneo:
https://www.fnpf.org/

Nusa Dua -way down south is where you can find high-end resorts within manicured grounds- where the initial prospect for mass tourism was to be more contained leaving visitors to drive inland on day-tours to experience the culture.
Ulu Watu and the southwestern tip of the island has dramatic cliffs with steep pathways down to isolated beaches. The intrepid surfers along this part of Bali are now surrounded by high-end luxury villa properties. A famous place to see the sunset along the cliffs is Ulu Watu Temple- one of the nine-directional temples protecting the island. Here the Balinese worship the forces of the earth and sea. Crowds flock to see a Kecak Dance here at sunset- with a chorus of men chanting a story of the Ramayana- a dramatic setting but if crowds and traffic is not for you, best enjoy this temple during quieter morning hours- just beware of the monkeys who love to challenge tourists.

Dramatic cliffs of Ulu Watu and Padang Padang Beach along the southern tip of Bali.

To most Balinese, daily life is directed inland towards the sacred mountains and volcanoes which are the abode of the gods.

Ubud and exploring beyond to the East and up North.

Ubud as the center of the arts, is a good place to begin a journey into the cultural heart of Bali. Located approx. 1.5 hours drive north of the airport, Ubud has come a long way since my early days of no phone connections and magical evenings on the verandah with a little gas lamp, watching fireflies over moonlit rice paddies. Now many visitors sit in chic cafes staring at their laptops or smartphones! But the magic is still to be found around Ubud- in the devotion to the temple rituals, in art, music and dance. Bali’s vibrant culture continues to defy a total take-over of modernity and the Balinese continue to welcome visitors with their heart in hospitality. Ubud is a place to immerse yourself in cultural workshops, cooking classes and wellness treatments.

Alam Indah is a wonderful home-base situated along the Monkey Forest and Wos River valley. Meaning Beautiful Nature, Alam Indah offers lovely accommodations where you can still feel the essence of Bali. Traditional architecture blending with modern comforts. Located in the village of Nyuh Kuning behind the Monkey Forest, Alam Indah will feel like a retreat, yet offers easy access to the cultural center of Ubud.

Learn more about the Alam Indah properties including Alam Jiwa, Alam Shanti and the original Kebun Indah guesthouse created by the family of Café Wayan:
www.alamindahbali.com

Traditional ceremonies within Nyuh Kuning village – with a special day each Kuningan- the end of 10-day Galungan celebrations when the sacred Barongs come out in procession.

Galungan is when all the roads are lined with bamboo penjor poles inviting gods and ancestors to visit family shrines. Galungan is celebrated every 210 days on the Bali pawukon calendar.

Bali New Year and Nyepi is another special time to experience the island. Each Dark Moon of March on the Saka or Lunar calendar is Nyepi, when the entire island shuts down for a day… no traffic and noone permitted on the roads. The airport and seaports are closed as well. The days prior to Nyepi is a time of purification with processions of sacred temple objects brought to the sea for cleansing.

Villages also create Ogoh Ogohs… effigies in all shapes and sizes...

Great fun for the kids and adults parading Ogoh Ogohs around town to cast off any bad spirits.
The next day is a total day of silence and renewal. Imagine a place that simply takes time to stop and listen to nature. Noone works and in villages no lights and no fires can be lit so bad spirits are not able to find you! Traditionally Nyepi is also a day of fasting, but at Alam Indah, guests can order Nyepi Box meals presented in palm-leaf baskets filled with enough food to last you while enjoying a blissfully quiet day.

History and Heritage

An interesting Brief History of Bali and the Balinese– Ancient Origins, How Bali Hinduism evolved, the Colonial Past and Modernity and Tourism:
https://bali.com/bali/travel-guide/culture/brief-history-of-bali/

Ubud Story Walks led by passionate local guides bringing history to present-day life:  https://ubudstorywalks.com/

Ubud got its name from the word obad… meaning medicine. At the meeting of two rivers known as Campuhan, 7th century Rishi Markandeya wandered from East Java and meditated here. Along these two rivers were many kinds of plants with healing qualities. The energy of this place inspired Rishi Markandeya to proceed to Mt. Agung to bury five precious metals in the ground to become the foundation for Besakih, Bali’s Mother Temple. Rishi Markandeya and his followers then settled back to the place where the two rivers meet. Here is the founding temple of Pura Gunung Lebah of Ubud was built and Ubud has continued to become a healing center for many visitors to the island.

Essence of Bali Heritage Walks and Backroad Cycling:
Join an exclusive guided tour tracing the origins of Bali Hindu Dharma.
Approx 30 minutes drive north of Ubud, visit hidden temples and holy springs along the Pakerisan River valley with the company of young Balinese hosts who love to share their insights and who are dedicated to cultural preservation.  Options also include soft backroad treks introducing traditional way of life.
More on:   http://balipuretour.com/
email:  booking@balipuretour.com

Bali Eco Tours, Backroads Cycling and Mt. Batur Treks
http://baliecocycling.com/index.php

Bali NOW! – an excellent selection of cultural articles with places to explore:
https://www.nowbali.co.id/category/explore-bali/

Kultara.id – for those venturing to the city of Denpasar, there is alot of heritage to discover.
Join insightful walking tours introducing the history of Bali or partake in one of Kultara’s cultural workshops. Best find their programs on Instagram: @kultara.id or email: hello@kultara.id

Art Galleries in and around Ubud:

Neka Museum
exhibits a wonderful art collection by Balinese and foreign artists as well as a special keris collection.
https://nekaartmuseum.com/

Puri Museum Lukisan-  Ubud’s first art museum founded by the Pita Maha Artist Collective established in 1936 by Cokorda Agung Sukawati- the Prince of Ubud and senior local artists including Gusti Nyoman Lempad and European expat artists Walter Spies and Rudolf Bonnet.
https://www.purilukisanmuseum.com/

Setia Darma House of Masks and Puppets-  a fabulous private collection:
http://www.maskandpuppets.com/

Threads of Life: supporting traditional weaving arts of Indonesia.
Visit their gallery at Rumah Roda on Jalan Kajeng in Ubud
A new gallery is located just out of town on Jalan Lungsiakan.
Textile appreciation classes and workshops:
More on: https://www.threadsoflife.com

Yoga Studios and Retreats:

Ubud is full of yoga studios offering all sorts of yoga but my favorite:
Intuitive Flow- long established and intimate-  located in Penestanan on the hill above Campuhan with a view of Mt. Agung:
https://www.intuitiveflow.com/

Anand Ashram Center for Wellbeing: founded by Anand Krishna, Spiritual Humanist of Indonesia.
https://ubudashram.org/
https://www.anandkrishna.org/en/

Bukit Cinta- the Campuhan Ridge Walk offers a nice escape from the busy roads from where you can also explore the village around Keliki, also home to young artists. The Rice Terraces of Tegallalang north of Ubud is also a very popular area to explore with cafes and art shops overlooking the terraces. Instagrammers get their Bali Swing photos and you can set off with a trekking guide along the terraces into villages.

Other areas to explore on Bali:

East Bali

Venturing east, approx 45 min drive from Ubud, you come to Klungkung and Gelgel– the former kingdom taken over by the Hindu/Javanese conquest of the Majapahit empire in 14th century. Once a center of trade, a golden age flourished here in the 16th century along with the arts of weaving, painting, dance & music. The Puri Agung Semarapura Palace dating back to 17th century was destroyed during the Dutch conquest. Today you can visit a small museum and the Kertha Gosa- the old Hall of Justice.

The Kertha Gosa is famous for the beautiful wayang-style paintings on the ceiling depicting stories of the Mahabharata epic. This painting style has been preserved in the nearby village of Kamasan.
The history of Klungkung is often overlooked by visitors to Bali and it is very worthwhile to stop to learn more about how the Balinese struggled here against the Dutch and where the Balinese puputan suicide took place in 1908.

Opposite the Kertha Gosa is a wonderful textile market. East Bali is home to weavers of ikat– known in Bali as endek– the tie and dye weave technique as well as intricate songket– supplemental woven fabrics.

A short drive south of Klungkung Market is Dian’s Rumah Songket where you can see weavers at work:
https://diansrumahsongket.com/

Sidemen – half an hour drive north of Klungkung is the valley of Sidemen along the sacred Unda River.
Also home to weavers, this beautiful valley is a lovely base for walks along the rice terraces and visits to nearby waterfalls and up to the Mother Temple of Besakih at the foot of Mt. Agung.

Accomodations in Sidemen:

Cepik Villa – an intimate six-room resort with gorgeous views:  https://www.cepikvilla.com/

Subak Tabola – classic Bali retreat: https://subaktabolavilla.com/

Surya Shanti Villa:   www.suryashantivilla.com

Nirarta Center for Living Awareness: https://www.awareness-bali.com/index.html

Darmada Eco Resort along the Unda River: https://darmadabali.com/

East Coast

Driving further along the east coast from Sidemen will bring you to Padang Bai– the harbour from where local ferries and speed boats depart for Lombok. Further east brings you to Candi Dasa which has seen better days. The beach was eroded but Candi Dasa is lined with accomodations offering relaxing sea views.

Mendira Beach– is a quiet enclave before reaching Candi Dasa.
Sea Breeze Bungalows done in traditional style: https://seabreezecandidasa.com/

Luxury along Mendira Beach is  Candi Beach Resort:
https://candibeachbali.com/

Tenganan: the Bali Aga village of the indigenous Balinese is a short drive from Mendira Beach. Tenganan is famous for double-ikat weaving known as geringsing and beautiful basket making. Strolling through this village is an insight to another world of Bali.

For an interesting introduction to Tenganan History and its Ancient Customs, click below:
https://www.nowbali.co.id/desa-tenganan-pegringsingan-bali/


Much of the beach along the East Coast is rocky with volcanic black sand. There is however, a beautiful Hidden White Sand (Virgin Beach) further up the East Coast down a bit of an improved rugged road at Prasi- between Candi Dasa and the Water Palace of Tirtagangga. Drivers will know this place.
No accomodations but local seafood stalls and lounge chairs to spend a relaxing day.

Continuing to the far east brings you to Amed. The dry and sleepy coastline is lined with accomodations. Local boats can take you out snorkeling or scuba diving. The famous wreck dives are located north of Amed at Tulamben.

Tirtagangga Royal Water Palace and fishing boats along the rugged Far East Bali coast.

Central Highlands

Mt Batukaru:
Bali’s second highest mountain ( 2275m) is surrounded by majestic scenery and nature. At the foot of Mt. Batukaru is the very peaceful Pura Luhur Batukaru Temple. This area is also home to simple and cozy homestays  –  seek out  Pesona Bali Homestay.. ( not far from the temple) with just a few rooms set back amidst rice terraces.

Rice Terraces of Jatiluwih-  enroute to Mt Batukaru-  explore these sweeping rice terraces honoring the Subak system of irrigation- recognized by UNESCO in 2012.
Read More on Bali Now!–  The concept of Tri Hita Karana -the three causes of well-being bringing together realms of the spirit, human and nature.

Another road into the Central Highlands brings you to:
Lake Bratan with Ulun Danu Temple and Bedugul – a cool, refreshing part of the island also home to Botanical Gardens.

Munduk beyond Lake Bratan is a beautiful, non-commercial area where you can hike around rice terraces, coffee plantations, waterfalls and lakes. Lots of new small and charming inns around Munduk but here are a few links:

Puri Lumbung Cottages: pioneer accomodations in this area  providing community support and hospitality training;  https://purilumbung.com

Sanak Retreat  – gorgeous mountain views within rice fields:
https://sanakbali.com/

Munduk Moding Plantation-  Luxury with exquisite views:
https://mundukmodingplantation.com/home/

North Coast

Zen Resort Bali: Ayurveda and Wellness Center: www.zenresortbali.com

Brahma Vihara Buddhist Meditation Center is located in Banjar close to the north coast- a beautiful place to visit or join a retreat.

Northeast Quiet  

The remote and more secluded northeast coast near Tejakula is lined with small retreat places.
Rugged, rocky, black sand coast where turn off the outside world looking out to the sea.

Bali Mandala Eco Retreat–  one of the first retreats on this coast-  still like Old Bali Days:
https://balimandala.de/en/

Bali Cottage Sambirenteng  – delightful little quiet paradise-  4 simple garden rooms- one with seaview.
Charming staff prepare wholesome food.
A one and two-bedroom unit with sea view available on request.   Find on Booking com

Feel timeless at Bali Cottage in Sambirenteng. A local outrigger can take you out early morning for sunrise and a view of Mt. Agung.

from Ubud, driving to the Northeast is an easy drive-   one hour first as far as Mt. Batur and Lake View now filled with trendy coffee and lunch places for a relaxing stop.  Then another hour drive on quiet but windy backroad up through Madenan… you reach, the northeast coast at Tejakula and Sambirenteng.
From here you can loop around to the far east of the island reaching Tulamben and Amed.

Mt Batur at 1717 meters is very popular for sunrise hikes. Lots of charming inns and upscale glamping places have opened in recent times from where you can simply enjoy the view without having to climb to the top of this still active volcano.

from Mt Batur, you can look out to Mt. Abang and to Mt. Agung in the distance.

If you believe in Dragons, here is an article that may interest you on Myths and Legends of Mt. Agung:
https://www.nowbali.co.id/mt-agung-home-of-myths-and-legends/

Northwest Coast

Pemuteran located on the northwest of Bali has a quiet sandy beach with nice accomodations.
Menjangan National Park is where the best corals, snorkeling and diving can be found off Bali. Hotels can arrange boats out to the island along with snorkeling and diving activities.

Taman Sari
a pioneer in eco-tourism development with lovely accomodations: www.balitamansari.com

Just down the beach from Taman Sari are two projects which are great to support:

Biorock Reef Restoration Project:
http://www.biorock-indonesia.com/project/pemuteran-bali/

Turtle Hatchery at Reef Seen:
https://reefseenbali.com/turtle-hatchery/

Tirta Sari Bungalows– charming and budget friendly located just behind the Turtle Hatchery.
Find them on Booking.com or Agoda

Heading further west are some other more upscale lodgings on the edge of West Bali ( Bali Barat) National Park where nature guides can help find the beautiful Bali Starling birds.

Menjangan Dynasty:  luxury tents overlooking the bay and sea with a private beach:  https://mdr.pphotels.com/

Secuded luxury in nature:
The Menjangan:  https://www.themenjangan.com/
and
Plataran Menjangan:   https://www.plataran.com/plataran-menjangan/

To Learn more about the successful breeding of Bali Starling Birds, check out:
Friends of National Parks Foundation:  (now known as Friends of Nature, People and Forest)
Bali Starling Breeding program on Nusa Penida Island, Wildlife Rescue Center in the Central Highlands and reforestation work in orangutan habitat of Tanjung Puting National Park, Kalimantan:  https://www.fnpf.org

Crossing over to Java:

The western tip of Bali is the port of Gilimanuk from where car-ferry boats make the 30-minute crossing to East Java and the port of Ketapang in Banyuwangi.  

Banyuwangi is a base to explore Ijen Crater and continue onward overland across Java.  Train travel on Java is now very much improved.  Journey to Probolinggo 4.5 hours by train and then a one hour drive to Cemoro Lawang – the Mt Bromo viewpoint.
See more on Train Travel- East Java Volcanoes-  Ijen to Bromo–  Click HERE

Ijen Resort and Villas   at the foot of stunning rice terraces:
https://www.ijenresortandvillas.com/

There is also an airport in Banyuwangi (BWX)- with flights to Jakarta. There may also be a short hop flight out of Bali ( DPS ) to Banyuwangi or perhaps one day a BWX-Surabaya flight will restart to offer connections there to other interesting places in Indonesia such as Kalimantan, Borneo.

Enjoy timeless travel discovering special places around Bali and Beyond- Selamat Jalan!