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Sri Lanka – Cultural Triangle, Elephants and Kandy

Archeological wonders, ruins of the lost cities now UNESCO World Heritage sites, the Cultural Triangle of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya and Dambulla is where you can still find the sacred alive along with nature reserves where elephants roam happily in the wild at Minneriya National Park.

Anuradhapura – Sri Lanka’s first ancient capital flourished for over 1300 years (4th-11th centuries CE )
The town became sacred with the arrival of a Bodhi tree sapling, from the original Bodhi tree of Bodhgaya, brought to Sri Lanka by the daughter of India’s Emperor Ashoka, in the 3rd century. Anuradhapura grew into a major cultural and political kingdom, centered around Theravada Buddhism and advanced irrigation systems. However a series of invasions by South Indian Cholas resulted in the abandonment of Anuradhapura around 993CE. Gradually reclaimed by the jungle, the ancient ruins of Anuradhapura were rediscovered by British excavations in the 19th century.

Today pilgrims and visitors come to worship at the enormous dagobas (stupas) and the sacred Sri Maha Bodhi Tree.

Polonnaruwa – served as the second capital of Sri Lanka from 1070-1232 CE

Polonnaruwa is an incredible ancient site with colossal Buddha statues.

After Anuradhapura was abandoned in 993, the Cholas then established their administrative capital in Polonnaruwa but Sri Lanka’s King Vijayabahu I managed to reclaim Polonnaruwa in 1070. The city entered its Golden Age during 12th century under the reign of King Parakramabahu I, transforming it into a magnificent urban center with reservoirs and a vast system of irrigation. During 13th century, with internal conflicts and further invasions from South Indians, Polonnaruwa declined and was abandoned. The capital moved south to various locations including the area of Kotte, near present-day Colombo by the coast. When the Portuguese arrived and established control of the coastal areas in 16th century, the Kingdom of Kandy was then established as a fortified capital in the mountains with the Sacred Buddha’s Tooth Relic brought there in 1592.
Kandy became the powerful, spiritual heart of the Sinhalese kingdom until the British took over in 1815.

Between Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, it is very worthwhile to visit other special sacred sites.
Mihintale – known as the Hill of Introduction is where Buddhism was first introduced to Sri Lanka in the 3rd century. A hike brings you to a marvellous view.
Ritigala Nature Reserve– where you can explore an ancient monastic hospital, is where Hanoman dropped Himalayan plants and herbs on his flight to Lanka in the Ramayana Story.

Click for: Silent Walks in Sri Lanka
Anuradhapura to Mihintale and Ritigala and Nilambe Meditation Center

Sigiriya- Lion’s Rock

The Rock of Sigiriya – translated as Lion’s Rock, is a fascinating site thought to have once been a Mahayana Buddhist monastery dedicated to Avalokitesvara and Tara. There are also the stories of King Kasyapa, son of a concubine. One story tells of Kasyapa murdering his own father to take the crown from his half brother. Kasyapa then fled Anuradhapura and created his palace at the summit of Sigiriya Rock. Surrounded by a crocodile infested moat, King Kasyapa created immense water and boulder gardens. Climbing up the 200m to the summit is done gradually by a series of steps and walkways where you can view impressive frescoes. The story of King Kaysapa continues with his suicide as his brother attempting to regain the crown.


Arthur C. Clarke was also deeply fascinated by Sigiriya Rock calling it an “eighth wonder of the world,” comparable to the pyramids but more personal, incorporating its magic and mystery into his novel The Fountains of Paradise as a site for a space elevator, seeing its ancient grandeur and gardens as futuristic, linking it to human ingenuity and the “Dawn of Man” in 2001: A Space Odyssey

An amazing place in space- see photos and more stories of this former palace in the sky:
https://www.sigiriya.org/

Village Exploration
From Sigiriya you can set off with a local guide on a village walk and ox-cart ride.

Learn about traditional village life and enjoy some wonderful local food.

Dambulla Caves

Dambulla, less than an hour drive south of Sigiriya, with its cave temples filled with Buddha images and beautiful paintings is an easy climb- another magical place in early morning or late afternoon light looking out to the silence of the expansive plains below.


Entrance fees are required to visit these ancient sites and payable in Sri Lankan Rupees.
Check to see about Joint-Tickets which include multiple sites with one price.

Nearby by Dambulla is the stunning Kandalama Lake – lovely for walks and bicycling.

Accomodations can be found for all budgets close to each site and it is best to stay in one place as a base for day trips

Anuradhapura:

Little Paradise – charming family guesthouse close to historical sites and the Maha Bodhi Tree.
https://littleparadise.xtadia.com/

Sigiriya:
a great base offering a great view of the rock in a jungly setting and close to Polonnaruwa and Minneriya National Park.

Hotel Sigiriya: looks right onto the rock, lovely staff including an onsite naturalist: https://www.brownshotels.com/hotelsigiriya/

Kandalama Lake area:
Amaya Lake Resort:    https://www.amayaresorts.com/amayalake

Homestay Option near Dambulla:

The Green Edge:   a peaceful small inn with comfortable and well appointed guestrooms. A delightful owner and host, Mr. Udana, has a great sense to detail and hospitality. Udana and his staff cook up a great curry!
https://www.greenedge-srilanka.com/

Elephants

Minneriya National Park – a Paradise for Elephants and Elephant Lovers!
conveniently located between Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa is a must for elephant enthusiasts!
Best time to visit is during the drier months of July-October.
Note with more visitors coming to Sri Lanka, it is also important to reserach best timings with your local guide. And if you are looking for quieter experiences to enjoy lots of other wonderful wildlife besides elephants, make this clear to your driver.
Sri Lanka has 26 national parks to enjoy. Wilpattu National Park in northwest Anuradhapura district is another beautiful park to see elephants and other wildlife including a chance to see a leopard.

Happily in the wild at Minneriya National Park

Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage:

17.Pinnawela_1w

Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage is located between Colombo and Kandy (approx 80km from Colombo- and 40km from Kandy), Pinnawala is the government showcase for elephants. Established in 1975 to protect orphaned elephants with several bred and born there. Crowds of visitors come twice daily to watch the elephants come down in a procession to enjoy two hours of bathing in the river. It is quite a sight and I found the elephants to look healthy and happy to frolic freely in the river! You can sit having your tea or lunch watching all the fun.

https://visitsrilanka.info/content/91-pinnawala-elephant-orphanage


Peradeniya Botanical Gardens
A short drive outside of Kandy on the way from/to Pinnawala are these beautiful gardens opposite the manicured University of Peredeniya.  Originally a royal pleasure garden for Kandyan kings, the royal botanical garden project began under Alexander Moon in 1821, focussing on tropical plants and in 1843, the gardens were expanded with plants from Kew Gardens and other locations. The British know how to do gardens, and today, collections include orchids, palms and spice gardens. The The Mahaweli Ganga River which source is the sacred mountain, Sri Pada  ( Adam’s Peak), loops around these beautiful grounds.
https://www.srilanka.travel/botanical-gardens

Kandy
The last capital of the Sinhalese kingdom before the British fully took control of Sri Lanka (then Ceylon) in 1815. The town is centered around a large man-made lake. Also known as Kiri Muhuda ( Sea of Milk), the lake built by King Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe. Right next to the lake is the famous and sacred Temple of the Buddha’s Tooth Relic. Strolling around the lake is also very pleasant under the shade of trees. The theatre performing traditional Kandyan Dance is also right off the lake.


Festive Lights at the Buddha’s Tooth Temple for Visakha Puja in May

Pujas are held twice each day regardless of the moon- early morning at 0530 and evening at 6:30 with locals coming to quietly worship and offer flowers.
Click to see more about:  Temple of the Buddha’s Tooth Relic. 

Kandyan Dancers perform each evening at a theatre just off Kandy Lake- amazing acrobatic energy.


The famous Esala Perahera ceremony is when the Tooth Relic is brought out in a grand procession of elephants, dancers and musicians, around the Full Moon of July or August. This amazing spectacle last several days, however there has been growing criticism calling out abuse of elephants. Temples have long held elephants as guardians and many also bond with their human care takers. So as it appears that regal elephants also feel reverence to the sacred, we hope that temple elephants are indeed well looked after.
Learn more:    https://sridaladamaligawa.lk/kandy-esala-perahera/ 

The best place to stay in Kandy for the Perahera is The Queens Hotel directly opposite the Temple of the Tooth offering a comfortable view right on to the procession:   https://www.queenshotel.lk/

Lots of other small hotels are found close to the lake area which is all nicely walkable, or with short tuk-tuk rides. However traffic can be a bit chaotic around the lake anytime of year, and during the Perahera, be prepared for crowds.

Quiet Oasis just outside of town:

There are lots of hotels and resorts just outside of town- many along the Mahaweli River providing beautiful views.

Sweet Cinnamon Kandy: a short drive from the center. This charming guesthouse managed by a lovely family and staff. Perfect for a family or friends retreat. Within the grounds is another house called The Clove Garden offering more of a budget option.
Check on Booking.com or Agoda.
Or email direct: priyan.herath@gmail.com

Sanatha Suwaya:  a new up and coming community and wellness center just outside of Kandy offering meditation, yoga, ayurveda cooking and other activities as well as accomodations.
Follow the news on:  https://www.sanathasuwaya.org

Sanatha Suwaya is a branch organization of Bhante Sujatha, a Sri Lankan monk who founded Blue Lotus Temple in Illinois, USA. https://bhantesujatha.org

Buddhist Publication Society has a great bookshop to visit along the lake in Kandy.   A worthwhile guidebook is: Sacred Island A Buddhist Pilgrim’s Guide to Sri Lanka by Ven. S Dhammika
https://www.bps.lk

Travel to Kandy and the Cultural Triangle

If Kandy is your first stop after Colombo, options are: Drive, stopping at Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, or enjoy the Train direct to Kandy -approx 3 hours ride from Colombo Fort Station.

Train Colombo direct to Anuradhapura is also possible or to Habarana which is closer to Sigiriya.

Travel onward Kandy into Tea Country:
You can train from Kandy to Ella and can try to get a seat in the 1st class observation car.
However if you do not like riding backwards, this may not be for you. The observation car is the last carriage of the government train with seats looking out from the large rear-end picture window.

Many travelers like to enjoy the old British charm of Nuwara Eliya – a very scenic drive from Kandy.
And then ride the train onward. The nicest scenery by train is from Nanu Oya Station ( close to Nuwara Eliya ) to Ella.

More Info on Travel Travel in Sri Lanka: https://www.seat61.com/SriLanka.htm

Click: Tea Country and the South Coast- Tanggalle and Galle Fort

Click: Back to Sri Lanka Main Page

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