Hanoi’s history spans over a millennium, evolving from the ancient citadel of Thang Long (1010) under the Ly Dynasty, serving as Vietnam’s political heart through various dynasties, becoming the capital of French Indochina in 1902, and finally the capital of a reunified Vietnam after the American-Vietnam War.
The Red River has been a strategic historic lifeline for transportation and trade, irrigation, and for defense.

Hanoi’s Old Quarter or Pho Co Ha Noi is a bustling heart of the city with a maze of narrow streets where ancient traditions and modern life meet. Historic narrow houses open into tranquil inner courtyards, many filled with plants and small trees with seating for tea. These home oases provide peaceful retreats from bustling streets for multi-generational families living in these narrow dwellings. A mix of temples, markets and street food make up the centuries-old charm.
Tree lined boulevards and French colonial architecture add to the city’s cultural heritage blending with traditional Vietnamese life.

Hoan Kiem Lake is considered the spiritual center of Hanoi. Founded in 1010 by Ly Tho To, the first ruler of the Ly dynasty, the city was at that time called Thang Long, or “Rising Dragon.”
By the 15th century, another legend tells of Emperor Le Loi boating on the lake and a Golden Turtle God surfaced asking for the emperor to give him his magic sword. So the lake got its name Hoan Kiem– meaning Lake of the Returned Sword. In the middle of the lake is a temple dedicated to the golden turtle which remains the guardian spirit of Hanoi today.

Stepping off the busy streets, the lake is a great place to relax and socialize. Early mornings, locals come to do Tai Chi and you can continue to spend the rest of the day overlooking the lake, people watching while having coffee or ice cream.
There is so much to reflect on Vietnam history and the Vietnamese identity which struggled through 1000 years under Chinese rule, French colonization, and then the American-Vietnam war.
A interesting book to read is:  Vietnam Now by journalist David Lam who returns to Vietnam some 30 years after the war, offering an insight to life of the not so distant past, and present.

The Old Quarter, just off the northern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake is a fascinating area to explore. It is very worthwhile to join a guided walking tour to learn about the unique social system and lifestyle. Craftsmen who migrated over time set up their own guilds on each street dedicated to one trade.  Each guild has one or two religious structures to honor its own patron saint or founder.  There are so many interesting hidden spaces you would never find on your own.

Taking a cyclo ride is a great way to feel the pulse of the city. Explore the market places and the contemporary art scene. With its heritage architecture, lakes and boulevards, Hanoi has become one of Southeast Asia’s most sophisticated cities.
And Hanoi’s Street Food is also fabulous- a whole experience itself.

Exploring and Eating with friends and our guide An, founder of Hidden Hanoi
I took the photos which included an exclusive food stall for ladies only, but they were kind to let me join and enjoy the food! Check out the programs including Cooking Classes offered by Hidden Hanoi: https://hiddenhanoi.vn/

Train Street
A narrow alley in the Old Quarter is where an active railway line runs just inches from homes and cafe
creating a unique spectacle as trains pass multiple times daily. It has become famous for tourists to experience this close-up view to get pictures, though access is often restricted due to safety concerns, with visitors sometimes allowed access only if they are customers of local establishments.

Places to visit off the Old Quarter:

Temple of Literature– founded in 1070 as a temple to honor Confucius, it soon became the site of Vietnam’s first national university, dedicated to educating the sons of mandarins and royal elites.
Here you can wander through the five courtyards with unique gates and ponds. See the Doctoral Steles
housing 82 stone turtles bearing the names of successful scholars.
During the French era, power was shifted away from traditional Vietnamese rulers and a separate French Quarter was created for their administration. The French used part of the Temple of Literature complex as a military barrack. However the French also registered it as a monument historique in 1906 with the Ecole Francaise d’Extreme-Orient (French School of the Far East) starting restoration efforts in the 1920s. French forces later damaged the complex in 1947, and after independence, the Vietnamese government conducted a major renovation.

KOTO – Know One Teach One
a hospitality training school for street kids and underprivileged youth with their restaurant close to the Temple of Literature.
www.koto.com.au

Craft Link – supporting traditional artisans throughout Vietnam
Their outlet shop is located next to KOTO Restaurant:
www.craftlink.com.vn

Temple of Literature and Ho Chi MInh’s Mausoleum

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Visiting here will give you an appreciation of how the Vietnamese come to pay respect to their founder of independence, Uncle Ho.  Walk back into the gardens to see the original simple house on stilts where Ho Chi Minh had once lived.

One Pillar Pagoda is also short walk away and is dedicated to Quan Am, the goddess of mercy. This small pagoda over a pond of lotus blossoms was built by Emperor Ly Thai Tong in 1049.  Lacking of a male heir, the Emperor once had a dream in which Quan Am appeared seated on a lotus flower. Soon after, the emperor found a wife and had a son, so he erected this pagoda to honor Quan Am.   The pagoda was destroyed by the French but restored in 1955. Today locals come to make wishes to have a child.

Hoa Lo Prison Museum ( also known as the Hanoi Hilton)
After liberation from the French who originally built this prison, the new Vietnamese revolutionary government used this place to detain American pilots during from 1964 -1973.
This is where US navy aviator, John McCain was held captive for over five years after his plane was shot down in 1967. He was released in 1973 as part of the Paris Peace Accords.

While visiting Vietnam, it is also good to hear personal, firsthand stories of life during the war, particularly during the bombing campaigns in Hanoi. With many people now getting older, hopefully the stories will not be forgotten, so we can all carry on in mutual respect and understanding.

The Women’s Museum   is very worthwhile to visit to understand the role of women who are honored for their courage in the fight for Vietnamese freedom.
The first female war heroes of Vietnam, recognized for their leadership in armed struggle against foreign domination, were the Trung Sisters (Trung Trac and Trung Nhi ), who led a rebellion against Chinese rule in 40 AD.  In the context of the 20th-century Vietnam War (against France and the U.S.), several women became legendary for their leadership and combat roles.

The Fine Arts Museum  is a beautiful introduction to a civilization far removed from the war images.

Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi:
An excellent introduction to the 54 ethnic groups of Vietnam and a must visit for anyone venturing up around Sapa:
https://www.vme.org.vn/en

Water Puppets!

These famous puppets come out and perform several times a day.  The Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre is opposite Hoan Kiem Lake, just off the Old Quarter.
Telling folk stories, these puppets were originally performed in the flooded rice paddies and today, the puppeteers stand in waist deep water behind the screen.  It’s charming kitsch and one of those fun not to be missed experiences.  See more on:
https://thanglongwaterpuppet.com/

Hanoi Opera House
A replica of the Paris Opera House
Check out their schedule of performances for a wonderful cross cultural evening.  
https://nhahatnhacvukichvietnam.com/en/home/

West Lake Area:
This growing trendy area along expansive West Lake is a nice place for Hanoians to relax over a meal.  Prime property includes new condos and cafes. 
There are also some interesting temples and pagodas to visit:
Phu Tay Ho Temple offers an introduction to local devotion where Confucianism and Taoism, with worship of ancestor and animistic deities, is practiced alongside Mahayana Buddhism. 
Chua Pho Linh Buddhist Pagoda nearby, is especially nice during the chanting times.

It is interesting to learn how Vietnam, perceived as a more male-oriented society, shows respect to the female- not only in divine mother worship, but to the everyday female, honoring women with flowers each Women’s Day in March.

Venture out to the countryside:.

Tam Coc- the Halong Bay on Land
A popular day trip or overnight destination from Hanoi- about 2 hours to Ninh Binh province.
Stunning landscape of limestone cliffs rising from emerald rice rice paddies and rivers, explored via a peaceful boat ride through caves. Tam Coc offers similar scenery to Ha Long Bay but in a tranquil countryside setting, closer to Hanoi. The boats are often rowed by women, sometimes also using their feet. Vietnamese women look small but they are amazingly strong! The area also offers opportunities for cycling and visiting ancient pagodas.

Mai Chau: about 3 hours drive west of Hanoi for a countryside retreat.
Check out Mai Chau Lodge: https://www.maichaulodge.com/en/

For a wonderful local guide based in Hanoi with his own travel company,
Contact Mr. Lam Le who can arrange a trip to Tam Coc, Halong Bay and beyond and can update on all the latest!
Email:   lamletroung77@gmail.com

Accomodations in Hanoi:

There is endless choice of accomodations throughout the city and Vietnam offers some of the best value in small hotels and I have not been able to keep up with all the changes.

My favorite Hanoi neighborhood, though, is just off the main Old Quarter frenzy in the area called
Au Trieu and around St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Nice eateries and cafes also include the Paris Deli for their wonderful croissants.  Au Trieu is also a short walk to Hoan Kiem Lake.

Splendid Star Grand – very friendly family hotel on quiet Tho Xuang Lane behind the cathedral.
www.splendidstarhotel.com click on Splendid Grand!
If their website does not work, find them on Booking com

Luxury and Timeless setting:

The Metropole Sofitel – close to the Hanoi Opera House.
A treat for High Tea!

Click on Links Below for:
– Halong Bay
– Sapa Highlands and on to Dien Bien Phu

Central Vietnam:
– Hoi An and My Son
– Hue

– South Vietnam:   Ho Chi Minh City and Mekong Delta

– Vietnam Visa Info:  https://vietnamvisa.govt.vn/
– Train Travel in Vietnam  :  https://www.seat61.com/Vietnam.htm