Southeast Asia’s smallest capital and largest city of Laos is home to several interesting historical sites including precious temples and monuments. Vientiane is also home to some wonderful weaving cooperatives, loads of cafes and a Night Market along the Mekong overlooking Thailand. It is interesting to get to know the feel of the heartbeat of this capital city of Lao PDR-– the People’s Democratic Republic which can also refer to Please Don’t Rush!

A little History:
An epic Lao Tale called Phra Lak Phra Lam, an adaptation of the Indian Ramayana, tells the story of Prince Thattaradtha, disinherited by his brother. But one day, a seven-headed Naga told Thattaradtha to build a new city on the eastern bank of the Mekong. This new city called Maha Thani Si Phan Phao would later become Vientiane.

“Vientiane” is the French spelling derived from the Lao Viangchan. Viang refers to a “walled city” and Chan derives from Sanskrit candana ( sandalwood ) although chan is also the moon… so some Lao refer to Viangchan as the Walled City of the Moon.

The early settlers were Mon people- who created the Dvaravati kingdoms along the Chao Phraya River Valley of present day Thailand. Feudal City States controlled trade throughout the Middle Mekong region and also brought influences of Theravada Buddhism from Sri Lanka. Later in 11th and 12th centuries, the Khmer Empire dominated the area with Mon along with Lao and Tai people migrations from southern China, assimilating into a new Lao civilization.

In 1354, a Lao prince, Fa Ngum, born inauspiciously with a full set of 32 teeth, was cast away down the Mekong. He ended up being raised in the Khmer court and married a Khmer princess. Later Fa Ngum returned on elephant back and founded the kingdom of Lan Xang ( Kingdom of a Million Elephants)
He brought with him the precious Phrabang Buddha image and created Luang Prabang as its capital.
Vientiane was set up as an administrative city. In 1563, King Setthathirath moved the capital to Vientiane to avoid the threat of Burmese invasion. King Setthathirath had married a princess from Chiang Mai, and settled back in Luang Prabang bringing with him the Emerald Buddha. When the capital shifted to Vientiane, the Phrabang remained the sacred guardian of Luang Prabang, while the Emerald Buddha was housed in Vientiane for over 200 years. Lan Xang fell apart in 1707. Vientiane became an independent kingdom, later to be conquered by the Siamese in 1779. The Emerald Buddha was then brought to present-day Bangkok.

King Anouvong continued to lead unsuccessful rebellions against the Siamese and by 1828, Vientiane was burned to the ground. Lao artifacts were looted and Lao people were also taken to Siam as slaves. Today a substantial ethnic Lao population lives in present day Thailand, mostly in the northeast, known as Isaan.

Vientiane was in ruins when the French first arrived in 1893. Soon after, Vientiane became the capital of the French protectorate of Laos. The French helped rebuild the city, repairing many of the old temples.

Wat Si Saket  built in 1818 managed to survive the sacking of Vientiane by the Siamese in 1827. The Siamese had used this temple as their home-base. The French colonial government restored the temple in 1924 and again in 1930.

The temple of Wat Sisaket lies within a cloister compound which is lined with over 2000 Buddha images.

Haw Phra Kaew, located across the road from Wat Si Saket dates back to 1565 and was a personal chapel for the Royal Lao family.

The Emerald Buddha was housed here for over 200 years until the Siamese claimed this sacred image, now residing the Grand Palace in Bangkok. Today the Haw Phra Kaew is a museum housing precious artifacts.

Pha That Luang Stupa ( the Great Stupa )  is a national symbol of Laos today

This large gold-covered Buddhist stupa dates back to 3rd century AD when five Arahat monks sent by Emperor Ashoka of India, brought a sacred relic of the Buddha ( believed to be a breastbone ) which was enshrined in the stupa. Over the course of time, the stupa and temple complex was reconstructed several times. During the 13th century, it was rebuilt as a Khmer temple but fell into ruins. In 16th century when King Setthatirath relocated the capital to Vientiane, the temple was reconstructed. The stupa is 45 meters high surrounded by 30 smaller stupas. Pha That Luang was destroyed by the Siamese in 1828 and it was not until early 1900s that the French helped restore it to its original design. The Franco-Siam conflict again left the temple heavily destroyed and at the end of World War II, it was reconstructed again.
The revered Pha That Luang remains a symbol of resistance today.

Around the Full Moon of November is the That Luang Festival with colorful processions of wax candles and monks coming from all over Laos to receive alms.

Patuxay Monument is dedicated to those who fought for independence from France with construction beginning in 1957. There was a pause in construction in 1962, and finally in 1968, the monument was completed with the U.S. donated cement originally intended for a new airport. The Patuxay incorporates traditional Lao designs with French colonial influences, resembling Paris’ Arc de Triomphe.

Lao National Museum, originally called the Lao Revolutionary Museum offers an interesting insight to history, the struggle for independence with its take on communism.
https://www.laostourism.org/laos-things-to-see/national-museum/

During French rule, Vietnamese were encouraged to migrate to Laos. Vietnamese migration was interrupted by the Japanese invasion of Indochina during World War 2.
The French re-took Vientiane on 24 April 1945.
In 1953, Laos became an independent state with Vientiane the national capital.

However, little Laos was eventualy drawn into the middle of the Vietnam-American War with the Lao Royalists supported by the US and communist Pathet Lao supported by the North Vietnamese.
On 02 December, 1975, the Pathet Lao took over Vientiane, dethroning the Kingdom of Laos. The country was renamed Lao PDR- People’s Democratic Republic.

COPE Visitor Center-  a must visit in Vientiane.
Exhibition on Cluster Bombs and where you can learn about COPE (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise) services for bomb survivors.

From 1964-1973, the US dropped more than two million tons of bombs on Laos- mostly at random during 580,000 bombing missions to target the Ho Chi Minh Trail passing through Northeast Laos. No other country has ever been bombed so extensively. For those nine years, Lao communities lived in caves, setting up living and medical facilities, while venturing out at night to plant rice.

1/3 of these cluster bombs did not explode leaving vast quantities of UXO- unexploded ordnance- killing or injuring 20,000 since the end of the war. Although much of the UXO has been cleared, many still remain, posing a continued risk to people, often children in remote areas.

U.S. President Obama made a historic visit to Laos in 2016- the first US president to visit and to personally address the legacy of war.

Sadly the U.S. remains one of the few countries yet to sign the treaty to ban these cluster bombs and they continue to be sold to countries like Saudi Arabia for bombing missions on Yemen.
It is also interesting to notice in the visitors book, how many American visitors commented that they never knew about what had happend in Laos.
Thank goodness the COPE Centre contnues to raise this awareness and may their good work helping bomb survivors continue.
Learn more:  https://copelaos.org

How Many More Limbs need to be Lost?
Sadly wars continue to escalate in the world which is a Failure to Humanity.
Sharing personal stories and ENOUGH of WARS
and How to Support ICAN- International Campaign to Abolish Nuclear Weapons:
Click to Read More

Textiles and Crafts:
On a brighter note, Vientiane is also home to several weaving cooperatives producing exquisite crafts.  Many of the master weavers resettled to Vientiane from the northeast during war time and today, projects based in Vientiane reach out to support weavers in remoter communities.

Check out:
Tai Baan Crafts – Heart Made, not Factory Made. Handwoven fashion and home textiles:
https://www.taibaancrafts.com/

Nikone Handcraft:
Exquisite textiles and home furnishings in natural dyes. Nikone is a true inspiration in the work she has done and continues to do for sustainable livelihood in Laos.

Nikone’s workshop and showroom is located beyond Thongkhankham market around the corner from Hong Gaya Sin. Tuk tuk drivers should know to find it.
Tel: (856-20) 56-359-782 or Email: nikone@laotel.com
No website but find  Nikone-Handcraft on Facebook and on Instagram @nikonehandcraftt

Buddha Sculpture Park ( Xieng Khuan )

This park is home to over 200 sculptures of Buddhist and Hindu deities in all shapes and sizes including mythical animals and demons depicting tales of folklore. There is even a 3-storey pumpkin! Created by an eccentric shaman priest artist in the 1950s who fled across the river during the revolution in 1975.
If time permits, enjoy an excursion into the countryside- about 25km outside of town passing the Friendship Bridge. You can get a bus from Talat Sao ( Monring Market )

Accomodations:
Several small, clean and friendly budget and boutique hotels can be found around Wat OngTeu/Wat Mixay area between Setthathirat Road and the Mekong- a short walk to the Nam Phou fountain area.  With so many new offerings and changes, best check out listings on Booking.com or  Agoda.

A few recommendations:
Upscale:
Salana Boutique Hotel – https://www.salanaboutique.com/  

Settha Palace – Vientiane’s most luxurious hotel, short walk from Nam Phou fountain: https://www.setthapalace.com

High-Speed Train to Luang Prabang

Imagine this- a High-Speed Train from Vientiane to Luang Prabang and on to China.
Normally the long 9-10 hour drive from Vientiane to Luang Prabang ( via Vang Vieng) can now be done by train in around 2 hours! So now in the Land of PDR- which is a reminder to Please Don’t Rush… you can now speed up your trip out of Vientiane to relax in Luang Prabang. The train makes a stop enroute in Vang Vieng... which has also developed into a traveler mecca along the Nam Song River set amidst limestone mountains. A slower train is also available which makes more local stops.

LCR- Lao China Rail has an APP to book tickets directly within 3 days of travel.
However you NEED to have either a Lao, China or Thai mobile number to register!

Tickets are only available 3 days in advance, and they sell out quickly. There is 2nd class, First Class and a Business Class. You can have a local Lao agent or see if your hotel can assist with tickets as going out to the train station is an approx 30 min. drive from Vientiane Center.

More info on:
https://www.laostraintickets.com/

Train Stations are huge and quite a distance from the centers.

Once on board, relax and enjoy the views riding in comfort.

Read more: https://alamasia.net/going-high-speed-to-slow-down-in-laos/

Train Travel from Bangkok to Vientiane:
Overnight sleeper trains operate from Bangkok’s new Aphiwat Railway Station to Nong Khai, very close to the Lao Friendship Bridge and a new train service now takes you directly across to Vientiane- and to a different station from where the Lao China Railway Station.

Thai Train Guide by Richard Barrow who shares a great passion for train travel:
https://www.thaitrainguide.com/

Another excellent website on Train Journeys throughout Asia and the world:
https://www.seat61.com/Laos.htm

Enjoy Lao Journeys– Sabaidee!

Click Here to see more on Luang Prabang and more in Laos