Tiruvannamalai, October 2025

Revered as the physical embodiment of Lord Shiva, Arunachala formed from an infinite pillar of fire that cooled into the sacred mountain. The ancient legend tells of Brahma and Vishnu arguing over who was superior. To settle the dispute, Shiva appeared as an infinite column of light, challenging them to find its beginning and end. Failing to find either, the gods prayed for relief from the blinding light. Shiva then subsided forming the column into Aruna-chala Hill- representing the Agni (fire) element, among the five elements of the universe. It is this mountain that Sri Ramana Maharshi was drawn to in 1896 at the age of 17, and where he spent the rest of his physical life.

India for a first-time visitor can feel overwhelming- a sensory overload. Nothing is necessarily what you may think it is. How to describe a nation of over one billion people, home to thousands of ethnic groups and tribal cultures. A land of diverse religious beliefs- home to Hindus, Muslims, Christians, Sikhs, Buddhists and Jains- and where tribal groups also practice animistic traditions. India is often referred to as “the mother of civilization” with its ancient history and contributions to philosophy, language and science.
A place where “god” has many manifestations. Deities range from one supreme being to millions of forms. In a land of seekers, whatever spiritual path resonates with you, can lead you on your path to understanding.

A simple question that is often the hardest to comprehend in any belief system is the “Who am I?“
This self-enquiry is what Sei Ramana encouraged people to reflect on.

Born in 1879 in Madurai, Tamil Nadu to a Brahmin family and named Venkataramana, as a young boy, he had a comfortable childhood, but showed little interest in academics and became increasingly indifferent to mundane worldly matters. Passing an elder one day, Venkataramana asked where he was coming from, and the reply was from Arunachala…the sacred hill in Tiruvannamalai. Immediately intrigued, Venkataramana began envisioning this sacred place… a place he felt he needed to go to.

Not long after the encounter with the elder, Venkataramana, although a perfectly healthy young man, experienced a sudden fear and vision of death. He envisioned his stiff dead body being carried to the cremation ground, reduced to ashes. But he questioned: What does this now mean? Am I dead? Is this Body “I”? – “Because I can still feel my personality and this I, as apart from this body. So “I” am a spirit transcending this body. The material body dies but the Spirit transcending it cannot be touched by death. I am therefore, the deathless Spirit.”
He left a note for his family and set off for Arunachala on his spiritual quest.

Venkataramana first stayed in various parts of the grand Arunachaleswara Temple in town- a grand sacred space and one of the Pancha Bhoota temples of southern India- this one representing the fire element. After time within the thousand-pillared hall, he moved to an underground vault called the Patala Lingam to meditate avoiding disturbances. Other places included gardens and caves on the slopes of the Arunachala Hill.
The Virupaksha Cave is where he stayed the longest- for 17 years until 1916, when he moved a little higher uphill to Srikandashram. Venkataramana’s mother, Alagammal, had tracked her son and often came to visit pleading him to return home. Finally giving up, his mother decided to stay on as her son’s disciple and to serve the devotees who began to come to Srikandashram. Venkataramana became known as Sri Ramana Maharshi. In 1922 Alagammal passed away and the current Ramana Ashram was established at the foot of the hill where Alagammal was placed in her final samadhi resting place. Sri Ramana guided his mother’s mind to be absorbed in her heart saying she had not “passed away” but was “absorbed” into Arunachala. Sri Ramana continued to lead a simple and modest life, passing away from his physical body in 1950.

Today pilgrims and devotees come from all over the world to Ramana Ashram.

Once inside away from the chaos of life on the roads, there is an immediate feeling of peace.
The use of phones and photography is not permitted within the ashram- it’s a space to disconnect to reconnect to your true self… a place where you can feel the silent and calm smile of Sri Ramana answering all of your questions. The shrines to Sri Ramana and his mother are worshipped daily with chants and offerings. Over the years, a school, a health dispensary and library developed with spaces to read and contemplate. A kitchen serves food to devotees and also offers food to sadhus and the poor.
Animals have also found refuge within the ashram. Sri Ramana looked after cows, dogs, monkeys and peacocks.

Behind the ashram into the forest, a 1.4 km walk brings you up to Srikandashram where devotees come to pay respects and meditate.

Stones laid by people unknown, over the years, now feel smooth from so many pilgrims who have walked along the peaceful path.

The monkeys and gray langurs you meet along the way, are also in quiet peaceful mode.

Looking down into town is the Arunachaleswara Temple where you can step down into the Patala Lingam vault where Sri Ramana took retreat before making his way to caves on the hill.

Sri Ramana encouraged people to simply experience the divine self through direct experience, rather than through intellectual process. And there is no doubt once coming to visit Ramana Ashram, you cannot help but feel unnecessary woes fade away.
Before his passing in 1950, a lump growth formed on Sri Ramana’s arm. He declined surgery.
Devotees begged him to be cured but Sri Ramana asked “Why? The illness is just my body, and once I am free of my body, I am still here with you.”

Tiruvannamalai has grown into quite a bustling chaotic town and festival times attract lots of people.
Girivalam is a sacred pilgrimage walk of 14 kilometers on the road encircling the base of Arunachala Hill. Devotees pay respects to the eight directional lingams. This walk is especially popular on Full Moon nights when thousands of people come. December Full Moon is most auspicious when a fire is lit at the peak of Arunachala Hill.

Getting to Tiruvannamalai:
Travel either from Chennai or Bangalore ( approx 200km ) or a little less from Tiruchiappalli ( Trichy ).
Pondicherry, former French India, is approx 100km away.
Cars or buses are available but train travel is my favorite way…

Who cares what time it is when traveling in India…. especially when one has a first glimpse at Arunachala.

Staying within the ashram is possible for devotees but requires advance booking online- see link below…

Several guest accomodations from simple lodgings close to the ashram to more upscale accomodations -many hosting yoga retreats, can be found a bit out of the center.
Down a quiet lane 5-10 minutes walk from the ashram is the very nice and clean Dwaraka Guesthouse with 3rd floor rooms and a rooftop offering a wonderful view of Arunachala. A few steps away is
Jeevana Ayurveda Center where you can enjoy treatments to revive the home body.

And each time looking at the mountain, a sense of inner peace takes hold.

In Indian philosophy, the relationship between the external divine force and inner grace is explained primarily through the concepts of Brahman (the universal, supreme spirit) and Atman (the individual inner self or soul). The core idea is that the external divine is not a separate entity, but is fundamentally identical to the inner self. This is the fundamental teaching of non-dualism in Advaita Vedanta in Hinduism.

External worship of deities and divine forms is a path to realizing inner truth. 

• External Worship (Bhakti): The divine can be conceptualized and worshipped in various personal forms (deities like Vishnu, Shiva, or goddesses) to make the infinite, formless Brahman accessible to the human mind. This devotional practice (Bhakti Yoga) cultivates a personal relationship and invokes divine “grace” while purifying the mind, which in turn helps in turning inwards to discover the divine consciousness already present within.
• Inner Grace (Self-Realization): The ultimate goal of moksha (liberation), is attained when experiencing the divine worshipped externally as the same as the inner self. This “grace” is not a force that descends from a distant sky, but rushes forth from within once the ego (the illusion of a separate self) subsides. 

How to integrate non-dual awareness into a dualistic world?

Mindful Observation and Equanimity:
-Become aware of thoughts and emotions, observe sensations without judgement or labeling.
-Recognize that thoughts and feelings are transient events arising in consciousness, rather than defining who you are. 
-Practice non-attachment to thoughts:
-Allow thoughts to come and go without getting carried away by them. 
-Recognize that emotions and events are temporary. Understand with acceptance that both pleasure and pain are a natural way of life.

Notice the interconnectedness of all things:
-Recognize that everything is part of a larger whole, and that actions and experiences have ripple effects. 
-Approach experiences, situations, and people with an open and accepting attitude, without trying to force things into pre-defined categories. 
-Let go of trying to live up to external expectations.
-Cultivate compassion and empathy
-Recognize the interconnectedness of all beings and extend kindness and understanding to others. 

Find joy in simple things and appreciate with wonder the beauty of the world.
“There is nothing higher than realizing one’s identity with the whole universe. “

See and Learn more on: https://www.gururamana.org/

And if interested more in Advaita Vedanta, below is a You Tube Link to Sujan Setty who presents clarity to many questions you may have: https://www.youtube.com/@adhvaitha