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Eastern Indonesia

-Islands East of Bali to the Spice Islands of Banda and on to West Papua ( formerly Irian Jaya ) with Raja Ampat- the world’s most biodiverse marine region.

-The Lesser Sunda Islands with Komodo National Park.

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The Maluku and Banda Islands were home to the gold of the earth- nutmeg and cloves were the spices sought after by European traders. The tiny islands of Banda just south of Ambon were so important in trade to the Dutch East India Company, that one little island called Pulau Run was given to the Dutch by the British in 1667 in exchange for former New Amsterdam which was to become New York- yes, Manhattan Island!

2017 celebrated the 350th anniversary of the Breda Treaty and the exchange for Manhattan.
See this story from BBC:
http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20171010-the-tiny-island-the-british-traded-for-manhattan

Early Indonesian traders included the Bugis people who still the sail the seas in traditional wooden phinisi boats. The phinisi above is a photo of the beloved MSY Perintis which was built for passenger cruising with seven cabins. So many fond memories of exploring these islands as far as West Papua.

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Entering the natural harbor of Banda Neira is like passing back into time with a dramatic backdrop of Gunung Api volcano, the old Dutch forts and walks up into magical nutmeg plantations shaded by kenari nut trees. The Banda Sea also has some of the best marine life in the world for divers and snorkelers.

Wishing to visit Banda today?
To reach beautiful remote places requires time, effort and flexibility to enjoy the adventure.
Timeless Banda Neira offers accomodations from simple guesthouses to more upscale heritage inns.
The Bandas are a group of 11 islands and you should definitely take time to arrange a local boat to take you around the islands and reefs of Pulau Ai, and Pulau Hatta, and to little Pulau Run to decide if the Dutch or British got the better deal.  Lonthor on Banda Besar is where you can walk amongst the nutmeg trees.
Best Travel Seasons with traditionally calmer seas are during the transitional monsoons months:
October- November and from February- May.

Here are some links for accomodations with helpful information on Banda and how to get there:

Cilu Bintang Estate-  owned by descendants from two of the Spice Island’s oldest families:
http://cilubintang.com

Maulana Hotel-  long established by the Alwi family which has hosted curious travelers and celebrities.
https://www.themaulanahotel.com

Dive Blue Motion- with more links to simpler accomodations and travel updates:
https://www.dive-bluemotion.com

How the Spice Islands changed the world…. and how nutmeg became a curse according to Amitav Ghosh:   https://alamasia.net/song-of-the-nutmeg/

Venturing beyond to Raja Ampat off West Papua?
Lots of dive liveaboards sail out here exploring the amazing underwater world, but you can also support locals by staying in their homestays.
Fly to Sorong and make your way by ferry boat across to Waisai and beyond within the islands of Raja Ampat. Besides the underwater world, there is also opportunity to hike into the forests for a chance to see Birds of Paradise.
See more info including logistics and entrance fees:
https://www.stayrajaampat.com/

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Ring of Fire by the Blair Brothers: 

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During the 1990s, Indonesian Odysseys were brought alive by the film called The Ring of Fire documenting the explorations over 10 years by British brothers Lorne and Lawrence Blair.  Part 1 of Ring of Fire: Spice Island Saga, traces the Bugis trade routes from Sulawesi to Banda and the Aru Islands in search of the famous Birds of Paradise.

Hard to find the DVDs but the book may be available at Ganesha Bookshop in Ubud.
Part 1:  Spice Island Saga may be viewed here:
Love this episode:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjiaUZrVToo
There are 3 other episodes may I hope become available again including explorations of Java, Sumba, Komodo to Asmat, and finally their story of settling in Ubud, Bali.

Below are some images of our arrival into Asmat, Indonesian Papua with the MSY Perintis back in 2000.

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These were amazing journeys and eventually perhaps I will get around to scanning some more old photos and slides!

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A highlight of our past trips with expedition ships Society Explorer and the World Discoverer was traveling with dear friend, Tobias Schneebaum who spent years living with the Asmat.

Tobias shared his experiences in his book, Where The Spirits Dwell: www.amazon.com/Where-Spirits-Dwell-Odyssey-Jungle


The Lesser Sunda Islands (Nusa Tenggara):

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The chain of islands to the east of Bali are formed where two great tectonic plates collide. Divided by deep oceanic trenches, movement of flora and fauna was limited. Just across the Lombok strait east of Bali, you enter a drier volcanic area where Komodo dragons roam and where lontar palm and corn are more subsistence crops than rice.

Between Bali and Lombok is an imaginary line known as The Wallace Line documented by British naturalist, Alfred Russel Wallace during this eight-year research from 1854-1862 in his book The Malay Archipelago. Wallace collected and cataloged a vast number of plant and animal species that inhabited this unique geographical area. His book includes numerous observations on the people, their languages and ways of living: www.amazon.com/The-Malay-Archipelago-Orang-Utan-Stanfords

In this vast archipelago, each island can feel like an independent universe.
Traditions in weaving textiles play an important role in community life. An excellent place to start learning more is at Threads of Life – an organization working with several weaving communities throughout Indonesia: https://www.threadsoflife.com

Children at Lamalera, Lembata Island Dancers on Savu
Children at Lamalera, Lembata Island             Dancers on Savu

Remote Beach on Flores Villagers on Sumba Island
Remote Beach on Flores                                       Villagers on Sumba Island

Bena Village on Flores Traditional dancers, Watublapi, Flores
Bena Village on Flores                                           Traditional dancers, Watublapi, Flores

Reflections on Sailing East for Easter and Good Friday with our beloved MSY  Perintis-
Click:
https://alamasia.net/indonesia-reflections-on-easter-sailing-east/

Travel to Eastern Indonesia  is now easier with more flights operating to remote areas, however schedules can still change often at short notice, so it is important to remain flexible.


Komodo and Overland Flores

Komodo National Park
The Komodo Dragon ( Varanus Komodoensis ) is a member of the monitor lizard family and is the largest living species of lizard. They can grow to an average length of 2 – 3 meters and weigh around 70 kilograms. Because of their size and because there are no other carnivorous animals, these apex predators dominate the ecosystem in which they live. They have long, yellow, deeply-forked tongues, used to detect taste and smell.  Komodo Dragons mainly feed on dead animal carcasses. They also hunt and ambush prey such as invertebrates, mammals and birds. To catch prey that is out of reach, Komodo Dragons are able to stand on their hind legs and use their tails as support. They have also been known to use their tails to knock down deer and pigs. They are also cannibals, eating their young and occasionally their eggs. The dragons teeth are large, curved and serrated and arranged so that the maximum amount of flesh can be bitten off and swallowed whole. The saliva of a Komodo Dragon contains over 50 types of bacteria, 7 of them highly septic.
Komodo Dragons are fascinating creatures attracting lots of curious visitors, but please do take these dragons seriously and visit only with official rangers and guides. Do not wander off the trails on your own!

The Main Island of Komodo now has a big cruise ship pier.  If travelling on your own or with a small group, you may wish to forgo the main island of Komodo and visit Rinca Island which is much quieter and where a gradual hike can take you up to see beautiful views.
Padar Island is also very popular with beautiful Pink Beach.  The Komodo Islands is famous for world-class diving and snorkeling, but be cautious of tricky currents which keep the incredible underwater eco- systems thriving.

Labuan Bajo, the town on the western tip of Flores is the gateway to Komodo National Park.
The town and surrounding area has boomed with new resorts and guesthouses and boat operators taking people out to Komodo National Park.
The best way to enjoy the islands is by live-aboard for 2 or 3 nights.
There are loads of boat operators including luxury live-aboards online.

Grand Komodo Tours is a long- time established company operating a fleet of boats around Komodo and to eastern Indonesia. They can arrange private boat charters out to Komodo.
https://grandkomodo.com/

Sea Trek Sailing Adventures
operating two beautiful phinisi schooners around Komodo and Eastern Indonesia during the best seasons
https://www.seatrekbali.com/

Getting to Labuan Bajo:
Several Daily Flights
Air Asia, Batik Air, Lion Air WINGS all fly from Bali, Jakarta or Surabaya.
Lion Air WINGS operate flights further east on their small aircraft and may also be flying Lombok to Labuan Bajo.

Direct International Flights may also be available on Air Asia from KL and Scoot from Singapore.

Overland Flores
Travel across this beautiful island is also becoming very popular-  so do it while still more off the beaten track with stunning  landscapes, traditional villages, and the sacred volcanic lakes of Kelimutu.
An overland journey from Labuan Bajo brings you through Ruteng,  Bajawa,  Ende, Kelimutu Lakes and on to Maumere.
An airport in Maumere allows an option to fly out from there- either back to Labuan Bajo, or on to Kupang on the island of Timor.  Venturing overland beyond Maumere to the far eastern tip of Flores takes you along the quiet coast with small guesthouses on the way to Larantuka, where the tradition of Procession on Good Friday takes place.

Eco Lodges Indonesia operates Mbeliling Mountain Lodge in western Flores and a beautiful lodge at Kelimutu Lakes.  They can also assist with your overland arrangements.
https://ecolodgesindonesia.com/kelimutu-ecolodge/

Enjoy wonderful adventures and discoveries!

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Komodo Dragon and Pink Beach of Padar Island, Komodo National Park

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