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Trincomalee – Kailash of the South

July 2015

Trinco Bay 762

With the second largest deep-water natural harbor in the world, Trincomalee contains fascinating history dating back to ancient times.  Most westerners may recall World War II history when “Trinco” was still a British and Dutch Naval Base.  The Japanese bombings in 1942 left several of these naval ships sunk.

It was very touching to visit the Commonwealth War Cemetery and to realize how many young men were sacrificed here, including an Unknown Burmese who fought for the British.

Trinco WW II cemetery 765

It was also nice to chat with the kind ​caretaker who showed some photos of his father, the former caretaker, and his mother, during a visit​ of Princess Anne, who came to plant a tree 20 years ago. The tree is ​now grown beautifully.

More recent history is the end of the civil war and Tamil Tiger conflict in 2009 which has allowed tourism to open up again along the beaches and with divers going out to explore the old shipwrecks.​

Trincomalee is also a sacred Hindu pilgrim site and is also known as the Kailash of the South.
The K​oneswaram Temple ​is ​where King Rawana once reigned.

Dandu Monara   Koneswaram Temple 755

​Rawana may have landed his Dandu Monara–  the​ majestic peacock and the world’s first passenger aircraft with the abducted Sita of the Ramayana Story on an airstrip far away from Trinco though​,​ as Rawana did rule over a large area of Lanka. It is fascinating following the Ramayana Trail in Sri Lanka which uncovers layers of myths and stories- far more stories than we hear about in Bali and the famous Kecak Dance in Bali could perhaps include some more episodes to their repertoire.

Trinco Ft Frederick 761

To reach the Koneswaram Temple, you drive through the old gates of Fort Frederick originally built by the Portuguese and re-built by the Dutch.

Koneswaram mural 759
On top of a rock are three ancient temples overlooking the sea. It is here where Rawana cut a cleft into the rock now known as Lover”s Leap and where you can see the sacred Swayambhu Lingam which was given to Rawana by Lord Shiva.
Ravana's cut Trinco 752c
Ravana Linggam Trinco 760
The Portuguese threw this sacred lingam into the sea back in 1624.
Vishnu Laksmi Koneswaram 750
Other sacred images of deities including those of Vishnu and Laksmi were discovered during an excavation in British times. And in 1962, a dive expedition re-discovered the ancient Lingam.  The scuba-dive team included Arthur C. Clarke, author of 2001 Space Odyssey 2001, who fell in love with Sri Lanka where he lived until he passed away.  Arthur C. Clarke described the lingam discovery in his book Reefs of Taprobane. For the team member who first spotted the lingam, the experience was apparently so profound, he renounced his career and family to become a Hindu Swami.

Today the Koneswaram Temple is an oasis of peace with devotees coming to worship and where visitors from all over the world are welcome. It was so nice meeting some of the sweetest people relieved the conflict time is over, and who look forward to a better future.

View from Koneswaram 756
May peace now prevail in Sri Lanka.

Travel there and where to stay…
A seven hour train journey from Colombo brings you to Trincomalee on the East Coast.
Perhaps one day Sri Lankan Airlines will begin a flight to Trinco’s air strip.If visiting the Cultural Triangle-  Trincomalee is a little over 2 hours drive from Polonnaruwa.

Just north of Trincomalee is the newly re-developing beach of Uppuveli offering a whole range of accomodations.

For special luxury, venture just bit further north to Nilaveli and stay at Jungle Beach:
https://www.ugaescapes.com/junglebeach/

Whale watching season around Trincomalee is from May to October, with the peak months for blue whale sightings typically being June, July, and August, as they migrate from the south. This is when the eastern coast’s seas are calm and clear, offering great opportunities to see blue whales, sperm whales, and dolphins, contrasting with the November-April season on the south coast.

Back to Sri Lanka MAIN Page
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Click for Cultural Triangle, Elephants and Kandy:
https://alamasia.net/sri-lanka-cultural-triangle-elephants-and-kandy/

Tea Country and the South:  https://alamasia.net/sri-lanka-tea-country-and-the-south/

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