Sailing on the Irrawaddy River

flowing through the central plains of Myanmar (Burma)

My thoughts bring me to this open expanse– where the river meeting the sky feels like an eternal space.
A space which can invite the mind to imagine a realm beyond the mind – away from the realm of conflict, where in Myanmar- again since 2021, life has plunged into the darkness of a military coup.
Sharing news of what has been happening since this last brutal coup does not attract much interest in the outside world. Sadly the people of Myanmar feel forgotten. But their resilience carries on.

Rather than share more news of killings and burning villages forcing thousands to flee many parts of the country, I’d like to share some fond memories of journeys to this country, experiences of travel back in time, meeting some of the most welcoming, friendly people you can imagine, and to honor that spirit.

When Myanmar opened up in periods of semi-freedom, visitors could embark on some fascinating explorations of the Irrawaddy, and in the comfort of some special small ships.

Memories of the days spent on the beautiful Amara with seven cozy cabins and a wonderful crew.

One trip a surprise birthday for Ibu Wayan! And a double surprise as it was not her actual birthdate.
Ibu’s new passport had been issued according to the new local ID cards issued. Many Balinese do not know their actual date of birth on the western gregorian calendar but they always know the date of birth on the Bali calendar which comes up every 210 days- good thing in Bali, one does not count the years!
So as any good cruise staff, the passenger manifest is checked and noticed Ibu’s date of birth according to passport and the day which in Nyuh Kuning, all people pop out of the coconuts (Nyuh means coconut) So the celebration was totally unexpected but a special treat for Ibu as she has looked after so many others on their birthdays… so each day can be celebrated as an Ibu Day and we all got to enjoy cake from the beautiful lacquer basket!

With our wonderful local guides May Khine and Koko

Sailing a few nights between Bagan and Mandalay brings you back into an era of timelessness..

Travel in Myanmar always felt like being in the country least touched or influenced by the outside world- where you could just turn the outside world off and simply experience the rhythm of life along the river.
The name “Irrawaddy” is derived from ancient stories of a sacred river in India (Iravati)
and also from Airavati – referring to the elephant mount of Hindu god Indra. Elephants were often a symbol for water and the divine elephant Airavati is believed to be the embodiment of huge clouds filled with monsoon rains.

The Irrawaddy ( also spelled Ayeyarwady) originates at the confluence of the Mali Kha and N’Mai Kha rivers in northern Myanmar’s Kachin State, flowing southward 2,170km before entering the Andaman Sea. From the hot plains of central Burma, it is incredible to imagine the far north of Kachin State- the foothills of the Himalaya, with a snow-capped peak called Hkakabo Razi at 5881m.
Early migrations into the plains of Bagan included Tibeto-Burman speaking Pyu people. Other groups from current Yunnan of China, and the Mon, from present-day central Thailand. These people contributed to develop a vast agricultural region allowing Burma at one time to be the largest exporters of rice.

From 9th-13th century, Bagan ( Pagan ) Dynasty developed into an impressive civilization of Southeast Asia, second only to the Khmer Empire. During the 13th century, battles were fought between Bamar
( Burmese ) and Shan people of northeastern Myanmar against the Mongols, then splitting the area into numerous small kingdoms.
Today…over 50 million people populate Myanmar with 135 ethnic groups officially recognized, divided intp 8 national races: Bamar, Chin, Kayin ( Karen) Kayah ( Karenni) Kachin, Mon, Rakhine and Shan.

Burma was the name given by the British taken from the term Bamar, the largest ethnic group comprising around 60% of the population that mostly inhabit the Irrawaddy plains. The remaining 40% or so, is made up of the various other ethnic groups mostly inhabiting the more resource-rich mountainous border areas. Each group has their own language but Burmese is considered the national language.  In 1989, the military regime officially changed the name of the country to Myanmar.  This name change was meant to refer to the nation representative of its many ethnic groups. Although many accept the name Myanmar respecting multi-ethnicity, some people still prefer to refer to the nation as Burma, not wishing to recognize any of the military regime’s actions. Plus Burma does sound more romantic to some.
Historically, boundaries of the nation as established under colonial rule, did not exist. What has formed Myanmar today began with the struggle for supremacy between various kingdoms and territories along with centuries of migrations creating allegiances as well as conquests. 

Europeans began arriving in early 16th century with the Portuguese. Filipe de Brito who worked his way to Asia as a cabin boy and ended up serving the King of Arakan ( today’s Rakhine State in the west of Myanmar bordering Bengal. ) He later went on to become the governor of the port of Syriam ( today known as Thanlyin, south of present- day Yangon). Filipe de Brito became a little too ambitious, forcing locals to convert to Catholicism and comitting acts of sacrilege. He went about destroying Buddha images and even removed a major bell from the Shwedagon Pagoda. Finally in 1613, Burmese forces took control of Filipe de Brito’s created fortress in Syriam and he was executed by “impalement” – and
that can be more severe than crucifixion! Oh my!

The Dutch East Indies Company (VOC) had a trading presence in Burma between 1634 and 1680, but it was the British that finally conquered all of Burma in three successive Anglo-Burmese wars.
In 1824 lower maritime areas were first taken. Then in 1852, wishing to take control of the teak trade, territory further north was seized and finally in 1885, Upper Burma was annexed with the capture of the royal capital of Mandalay. The entire country was consolidated as a province of the British Indian Empire. King Thibaw and his Queen Supalayat, the last rulers of the Konbaung Dynasty, were exiled to India.

Civil service under the British was staffed primarily by Anglo-Burmese, Indians and Bengalis. Thousands of Bengali and Indian labourers were also brought in, willing to work for lower wages. This displaced many Burmese farmers and to make ends meet, many Burmese had to take out loans from Indian money lenders at high interest rates. This quickly led to dysfunction in Burmese society followed by resentment of the Indian community left over by the British after indepedence in 1948. During the Japanese occupation, with the goal of reaching India, Japanese forces supported Arakan Buddhists ( in western Myanmar) while the British continued to back Bengali Muslims resulting in horrific massacres with layers of pain waves continuing today- which is a whole other long complex story!

Back to the Irrawaddy:
During the British colonial times, the Irrawaddy River was also known as the Road to Mandalay. 
From 1865- late 1940s, the Scottish owned Irrawaddy Flotilla Company transported cargo and passengers up and down this mighty river. At its peak in the late 1920s, the Irrawaddy Flotilla fleet was the largest fleet of river boats in the world, consisting of over 600 vessels.

Later with the arrival of modern-day tourism, Pandaw Cruises operated a group of wonderful river boats constructed in the style of the former Irrawaddy Flotillas.

We have also enjoyed some delightful cruises on the Pandaw between Mandalay and Bagan.
Click Here for founder Paul Strachan’s Blog to see how these flotilla ships operated in earlier days!

Bagan
On the eastern bank of the Irrawaddy, you find thousands of pagodas scattered on the plains.

Founded in 849, the Kingdom of Bagan experienced its prime during 11-13th centuries under the great King Anawratha who unified the region by unifying Mon and Pyu-city states of the south. Originally the inhabitants of Bagan were animists. Influences of Hinduism and Mahayana Buddhism had arrived and by the time of King Anawratha, the transition to Theravada Buddhism took place. Capturing the Mon King Manuha, Anawratha was able to obtain the Theravada Tripitaka Buddhist scriptures for further learning. Along with King Manuha, thousands of Mon artisans and craftsmen were also captured who contributed to the building of thousands of pagodas- including some of the greatest during the reign of Anawratha- the golden Shwezigon:

Shwezigon Pagoda was built to enshrine a bone and tooth relic of Gautama Buddha from Kandy in Sri Lanka. King Anawratha had sent a mission to Sri Lanka along with a gift of a white elephant to obtain the Sacred Tooth Relic from his friend King Vijayabahu. Back in Bagan, another white elephant, mounted with the relics was sent to roam freely with the declaration that wherever the elephant stopped, would be the site for building the pagoda.

Building of pagodas was a great act of making merit and it is said that over 10,000 pagodas were built-  with approx  2200 remaining today. This first Burmese kingdom had become a great center of Buddhist studies along with astrology and alchemy with scholars, students and pilgrims coming from India and all over Southeast Asia.

The Ananda Temple dates back to early 12th century built by King Kyanzittha (1084-1113) and is one of the best preserved temples of Bagan. An earthquake in 1975 caused severe damages, but the Ananda Temple was totally restored. The entrance ways lead to four 9.5 meter standing Buddha images. Those facing north and south are original displaying the dhammacakra mudra, symbolizing the Buddha’s first sermon. You can notice the southern image with a face looking sad up close, but from a distance, you notice a smile.

Nearby Ananda Temple is the Ok Kyaung – a brick monastery dating back to 12th century with beautiful murals that were later done in 18th century. Another site in nearby Myinkaba village, is the Gubyauk-gyi with well preserved frescoes dating back to 12th century and is a must see in Bagan.

Lots of other stories can be told around the early Bagan pagodas. The massive Dhammayangyi Pahto has its own shadier history. It was built by King Narathu who came to the throne by assassinating his father and elder brother. Narathu built this pagoda to atone for his sins.
One of the oldest temples is the Manuha Temple with four large gold-pained Buddha images contained in rooms barely large enough to accomodate them. One of the images in “Calling the Earth to Witness” posture depicts captivity, but in serene expression. It was King Manuha’s wish to never again be conquered, and to attain nirvana.

You can spend days exploring pagodas imagining what life was like amidst now quiet lanes of sand. Following internal and external conflicts, Bagan finally collapsed in 1287.

While new kingdoms were established in Upper Burma around Mandalay, Bagan remained inhabited by a small population of humans and continued to be a pilgrimage site to the main temples, with lesser temples falling into disrepair. Bagan was then also believed to be inhabited by nats– spirits who have met an unfortunate death. Certain nats, numbering 37- and some from pre-Buddhist times, were officially endorsed for worship by the Bamar monarchy. The Shwezigon is home to one of many nat shrines around the country which come alive especially during their festival times.  One particular nat festival outside of Mandalay each year becomes quite a wild affair!
One of the shrines at the Shwezigon is dedicated to Mae Wana– the guardian nat of medicinal herbs. Mae Wana was the sister of the Mon King Manuha who left her palace to meditate on Mt. Popa outside of Bagan. She died there of a broken heart.  Other nats carry colorful stories which could be turned into very entertaining modern-day soap operas.

Bagan suffered from several earthquakes- a major one in 1975 and again in 2014 damaging hundreds of pagodas. During the time of the military SLORC ( State Law and Order Restoration Council which seized power following the 1988 uprising and putting Aung San Suu Kyi under house arrest), the regime began their own version of restorations of damaged pagodas which was met with criticism by art historians and preservationists. In 1997, SLORC became SPDC- State Peace and Development Council and alas, the country remained under military rule until 2010.

One could visit Myanmar a bit more freely knowing where and how to support local businesses and people who no longer wanted to remain isolated. Mass tourism was not around. You could be off the beaten paths experiencing daily life. One aspect that always touched me with the people I met, was how under a repressive regime, a sense of inner peace radiated. The devotion and foundation in meditation granted them solace and acceptance.

Exploring and getting lost around Bagan, you can feel the silent wind as if wanting to whisper stories...

Our local guides and friends have been so happy to show us so much of the country they love.

May with Ibu above- and Linn Linn who also became a great guide in Bagan.
Linn first worked at a charming little hotel called Thazin Garden with the pagoda in their garden lit up with candles at night. The area close by is also home to traditional lacquerware artisans.

And missing The Moon Vegetarian Cafe – in a garden just outside of Ananda Temple.

Nee Nee Myint who founded Zarmani Tours, first introduced me to all the good people and places.

Our Amara Crew setting up a special dinner along the sandbanks.. later under the stars on way to Mandalay..

The area of Mandalay was the site of Ancient Royal Capitals including Ava and Amarapura. Besides the results of natural disasters and conquests, it was common for Burmese kings to move their capitals according to astrological consultations. This tradition remained with the modern military junta to develop a bizarre new and current capital city at Naypyidaw.

The former and last royal palace of Mandalay was a compound of 413 hectare, surrounded by four 2km-long walls and a moat 64m wide, 4.5m deep. The walls had three gates on each side, twelve in total, each representing a zodiac sign.
When the British deposed of King Thibaw, the palace became a center of colonial life equipped with
luxury facilities such as a polo field, a golf course, tennis courts as well as a chapel.
Today it is a Burmese military base along with a museum for visitors.

Mind you, the palace was not without intrigue prior to the British taking over. Queen Supalayat was fierce.
Her husband, King Thibaw, was also her half-brother. It is said the Queen had been responsible for the brutal massacre of 80-100 royal family members to prevent any potetntial rivals from taking the throne.
King Thibaw died in exile in India in 1916, aged 58. His body was not permitted to be brought back to Burma but Supalayat did return in 1919 where she was placed under house arrest. She defiantly held her own royal court while under house arrest until she passed away in 1925.

Mandalay City today appears like a China-fied urban sprawl but the Old Town which lies east of the former palace, is full of treasures.

The Shwenandaw known also as the Golden Palace Monastery, was intricately carved in teak wood in the 19th century. This used to be part of the Mandalay Royal Palace. In 1857, King Mindon used this palace as his personal living quarters. After he died, his son, King Thibaw relocated the building outside of the palace grounds in 1880 and dedicated it to be used as a monastery. The Shwenandaw is the only original building remaining from the Royal Palace which was destroyed by fire in World War II.

Kuthodaw Pagoda houses the world’s largest book. Built between 1857 and 1871, King Mindon wished to leave a great act of merit by having the Buddhist Tripitaka teachings set in stone. Inscriptions can be found on 729 marble slabs.
Rising 240 meters behind Kuthodaw is Mandalay Hill, home to a number of padoda and monasteries- a major pilgrimage for locals coming to worship at the wish-fulfilling stupa.

Early morning is very special to visit the Mahamuni Buddha, considered to be a living, breathing Buddha.
Each morning before dawn, a face washing ritual of the Mahamuni Buddha takes place with many worshippers coming to pay respects and to receive blessings. Monks assisted by lay helpers was the face and brush the teeth of the Buddha with sandalwood paste and scented water. Fresh face towels are donated by the devotees.

Mandalay is also the center of Burmese arts and crafts. Traditional dance and puppetry, and home to artisans producing kalaga tapestries, silk weavings and gold leaf. Neighborhoods are dedicated to wood and stone carving and there is a lively jade market. The ancient Royal Capitals of Ava (Inwa) and Amarapura, with its famous U-Bein Bridge, are found south of Mandalay and worthwhile exploring.

All over Myanmar, ladies as well as men! wear beautiful longyis with each region having their own style. Mandalay is famous for the Luntaya acheik -a tapestry weave technique of intricate wave patterns interwoven with bands of horizontal stripes.

Phaung Daw Oo ( PDO) Monastic School
A highlight was always a visit to the PDO School founded by U Nayaka, a progressive monk allowing over 6000 poor lay children, novices and monks free education, with a free health clinic also serving the community. Always a warm welcome with students thrilled to have a chance to practice English.

Run entirely by private donations, I so hope the PDO School is somehow surviving. Their website may come back up: https://pdoeducation.org/

Opposite bank of the Irrawaddy is Sagaing

An important center for Buddhist studies with pagodas dotting the hills along the river. There are numerous monasteries, home to thousands of monks and nuns.

U Min Thounzeh is one of the many beautiful pagodas to visit in Sagaing with its crescent shaped hall with 45 seated Buddha images amidst tiled mozaics.

Mingun
Cruising approx one hour upriver brings you to the site of what would have been the world’s largest chedi, had the project of King Bodapaya been completed before his death in 1819.

Pahtodawgyi Pagoda was only 1/3 completed and was left to be damaged by the 1839 earthquake.

The Mingun Bell

Cast in 1808 and weighing 90 tons is considered the second-largest ringing bell in the world.

Climbing steps 50 meters to the summit of the chedi offers a great view…

and an Ox Cart taxi can take you a short distance further to Hsinbyume Pagoda below..

Looking like frosting on a cake and inspired by legends of mythological Mt. Meru, King Bagyidaw
(grandson of Bodapaya) built this pagoda in 1816 in memory of his wife, Princess Hsinbyume– the lady of a White Elephant, who died in childbirth. The 1839 earthquake also destroyed this pagoda but it was restored by King Mindon.

Along the way, welcoming local artists displaying their paintings along with some wonderful puppets.

By the way, click below for a short clip to see The Mandalay Marionette performance:
Founded in 1986 by two women, Ma Ma Naing and Naing Yee Mar:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=athgoE5jDXA

Cruising further upstream, maybe a chance to spot Irrawaddy river dolphin, but cameras need to be quick

Further upsteam the landscape changes dramatically passing through gorges known as defiles.

Here the river becomes narrow with faster currents passing thru these gorges lined with forested hills.

Retracing Burmese Days of George Orwell
If you have not heard of George Orwell who wrote 1984 and Animal Farm, you can get to know more about George in Myanmar. People approach you to buy a copy of his first novel, Burmese Days, which was first published in 1934.

George was born Eric Arthur Blair in 1903 in eastern India, the son of a British colonial civil servant.
His mother had been born in Burma and his grandmother still lived in Mawlamyine, then known as Moulmein, the first capital of British Burma.  Following an education in England, he joined the Indian Imperial Police in Burma, and between 1926-27, was stationed in a town called Katha, along the Upper Irrawaddy River.
Eric Blair later took the pen-name George Orwell, writing about life in a fictional town called Kyauktada– portraying “the dark side of the British Raj.” The story’s main character is a teak trader named John Flory, a loner trapped between imperial bigotry and indigenous corruption of a local official striving to become equal with the ruling white class.

Stopping off in Katha, you can see the house where George Orwell lived.

Kyauktada was not entirely fictional. The Burmese Days town of Kyauktada, was only reachable by river or train- same as Katha. Kyauktada and Katha both were a center of teak wood logging. Amidst decaying colonial mansions and teak houses, the old British Club described in the book, can still be found in Katha- – now an association office with its tennis court. The old jail building is still the jail.

Katha was also featured in Emma Larkin’s 2004 book Secret Histories: Finding George Orwell in a Burmese Teashop, in which she wrote: ” Burmese Days was the beginning of Orwell’s uncanny and prophetic trilogy [Burmese Days, Animal Farm and Nineteen Eighty-Four], which told the history of present-day Burma,”

Not long after Burma became independent from Britain in 1948, a military dictator sealed off the country from the outside world, launched ‘The Burmese Way to Socialism’, and turned Burma into one of the poorest countries in Asia. The same story is told in Orwell’s Animal Farm … Finally, in Nineteen Eighty-Four, Orwell’s description of a horrifying dystopia paints a chillingly accurate picture of Burma today, a country ruled by one of the world’s most brutal and tenacious dictatorships.

Orwell wrote “1984″ as a warning. Published in 1949, he wanted to demonstrate what could happen if citizens allowed their governments to hold as much power as they desired. Orwell was staunchly against surveillance and totalitarian practices. Does this not ring a bell to what is happening today?

Navigating the river requires experience of changing water levels and shifting sandbanks.
May the people of Myanmar continue to navigate the shifting times into a new era of light.

May all be well and happy….sooner than later.

Follow Myanmar News and Updates on:
https://www.irrawaddy.com
https://www.myanmar-now.org/en/news
https://progressivevoicemyanmar.org

Insight Myanmar – Blogs and Insightful Podcasts
while world attention is distracted from what is happening in Myanmar, the resistance bravely carries on:
https://insightmyanmar.org

From Bhamo where we disembarked the Amara, a few hours drive brought us to Myitkyina, the capital of Kachin State from where flights depart to Yangon. On the way, it may still be possible to see the confluence of the Mali Kha and N’Mai Kha Rivers– the source of the Irrawaddy. However this area may end up being totally submerged if the proposed dam project with China goes forward to be built. The post-2010 government under Aung San Suu Kyi and the NLD, put the project on hold.

Another great read:
Beyond the Last Village– the passionate story of Alan Rabinowitz of the WCS Wildlife Conservation Society who in the 1990s along with the cooperation of the Myanmar Ministry of Forestry, set out to protect wildlife in the remotest area of northern Kachin State and gaining the approval to establish a national park at the foot of Hkakabo Razi, the highest snow-capped mountain of Southeast Asia in Myanmar at 5881m. It is a mesmerizing book.

Alan notes: “The world stops being a wondrous place only when we stop thinking of it as such…”

More stories on Travel in Myanmar:
Click:
Twilight Over Burma- A Journey to Hsipaw and the Story of a Shan Princess
The Salween- if the River Could Talk

Pages below were written BC- ( Before Covid and Before Coup)….
but still offer an introduction to some special places which hopefully can be visited again soon:

– Yangon
In Shan State:
– Inle Lake 
– Pindaya Caves
and the Hill Station of Kalaw – such a beautiful area.

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